: 
AN ENCYCLOPADIA 
* 
OF HORTICULTURE. a fe : 
Raspberry—continued. 
CULTIVATION. Ground intended for a new Raspberry 
plantation should be well trenched, and have plenty 
of manure intermixed. A good depth of soil is essential, 
and a rather moist situation is preferable. When trench- 
ing, the subsoil need not be brought to the surface if 
it is of an inferior description, but it should be moved 
to a depth of from 2ft., to 24ft., and have some decom- 
' posed manure mixed with it. The usual method of 
planting is in rows, about 5ft. apart, a distance of not 
less than 3ft. being allowed between plants in the row. 
Canes may be arranged singly, in twos, or in threes; 
when more than one are planted, a space of 6in. should 
be allowed between them. Two or three canes form a 
full-sized bush on a stake in a much shorter time than 
one; but, of course, many more are required, in the 
first instance, to form a plantation. After the canes 
are planted, they should be cut down to within 1ft. 
of the ground; this will encourage the production of 
stronger growths the next summer than could be ex- 
pected if they were allowed to fruit the first year. The 
following autumn, the canes should be tied to stakes, 
and shortened to a height of. about 6ft.; the plantation 
may then be considered established. In the second 
Fic. 357. FRUITING BRANCHLET OF RASPBERRY. 
Season, these canes will bear fruit from the side 
branchlets, and suckers will proceed from the base, to 
form others for fruiting the succeeding year; about six 
of the strongest will be sufficient to leave on each plant; 
the remainder should be removed early in the season as 
they appear. The pruning for this and successive 
Seasons consists in cutting away the old canes any time 
after fruiting, and tying the new ones in the autumn 
to take their place. Raspberries are sometimes trained 
to a trellis formed horizontally with strained wire, or 
narrow strips of wood about lin. thick, with upright 
stakes at intervals. The plants for training against 
these may be arranged about 2ft. asunder, and old and 
young canes should be trained alternately as far as con- 
venient. Another method of training is that of arching, 
for which purpose plants may be inserted 4ft. apart, 
and the tops of one trained over to meet those of that 
adjoining. 
A top-dressing of manure should be applied to Rasp- 
berry plantations in the autumn: it may be lightly 
forked in, but the soil should never be stirred to a great 
depth; otherwise, many of the surface-roots would be 
destroyed. When very large fruits are required, but 
few bearing shoots should be allowed, and these only of 
the strongest description. The young shoots from a few 
Raspberry—continued. 
stools might be kept removed, in order to throw addi- 
tional support into those fruiting; this, however, would 
prevent the development of canes for bearing the suc- 
ceeding year. 
Funai. Though a good many Fungi grow on dead 
Raspberry canes, this plant does not experience serious 
damage from parasitic Fungi. The most common one is 
a Brand, belonging to Phragmidium, a genus of Ure- 
dinew, characterised by having the more conspicuous 
spores (teleutospores) composed of a row of cells, end to 
end (see Phragmidium). The leaves of the Raspberry 
in autumn are often thickly sprinkled with small, black 
dots, made up of masses of spores of P. Rubi-Idqwi, 
Pers. (P. gracilis, Grey.), or the Raspberry Brand. 
The spores are cylindrical, or nearly so, contain from 
six to ten cells, and end in a conical point. The dark 
masses are preceded by yellow spots, which are the 
zecidia, or the uredo form of this plant. These yellow 
spots are made up of spores, roundish or elliptical in 
form, yellow in colour, and prickly; but the æcidiospores 
are produced in rows, while the uredospores grow singly 
on the tips of short stalks, which are crowded together 
in separate spots. 
The living leaves of Raspberries fre- 
quently have the upper side sprinkled 
thickly with black dots, smaller than those 
caused by Phragmidium. These are the 
perithecia of Coleroa chatomiwm, Kunze 
(Stigmatea Chetomium, Fries.), one of the © 
Pyrenomycetes. With the microscope, it is 
seen that they lie on the surface of the 
leaf, and are bristly, globular, and thin. 
Each contains a number of asci, each of 
which incloses eight two-celled spores. 
’ Both kinds of Fungi are apt to cause 
the premature discoloration and the fall of 
the leaves, but it can scarcely be said that 
they seriously affect the welfare of the 
plants. The only remedy is to pick off the 
speckled leaves, or to cut down and burn 
those plants that are seriously attacked ; 
but this is seldom, if ever, necessary. 
Insects. The roots are, in common with 
those of other plants, liable to be cut and 
eaten by Mole Crickets, and by the usual 
subterranean larvee (e.g., Cockchafers, &c.). 
Damage from this cause is so seldom serious 
that it need not be dwelt on. The young 
canes, and the fruit, on the contrary, are sometimes 
very much injured by certain insects. Among these, the 
following have been recorded in Miss Ormerod’s valuable — 
“Reports on Injurious Insects,” for 1879 and 1883, as 
peculiarly destructive. Certain Weevils (Otiorhynchus 
picipes, O. sulcatus, &c.) gnaw the young shoots, killing 
them, and greatly weakening the plants, many of which 
perish when the attack is severe. Besides this, the — 
beetles gnaw through the bases of the flower shoots, 
either cutting them off entirely, or biting half through 
them, causing them to wither, and destroying the crops. 
For a description of these insects, see Otiorhynchus. 
They hide, during the day, under any shelter they can 
reach, and, as they are wingless, this must be near the 
plants. Hence, pieces of bark, or similar objects, placed 
in their haunts, prove good traps, and have been used 
with success for their capture, since they are easily 
cleared off the lower surface of such traps. Any sticky 
substance smeared round the stems would prevent the 
ascent of the insects to the flower-shoots; but this 
method is too laborious to be employed for any but 
choice plants. The most effectual means of destroying 
the beetles has been found to be shaking the plants 
after dark over shallow wooden trays, smeared with tar 
round the sides, to prevent the escape of the insects, 
