316 
THE DICTIONARY OF GARDENING, 
Rosa—continued. 
grown on for a time under similar conditions until they 
are sufficiently established to be inured to cooler quarters, 
gradually hardened, and eventually placed in the open 
air. At the middle, and towards the latter part, of 
summer, Rose cuttings, with leaves attached, may be 
readily rooted under what is termed cool treatment in 
the open air. A shady position is essential, such as is 
frequently obtainable against the back wall of a forcing or 
other plant house which faces south.” Bell or hand-glasses 
are often used; but a better plan is to prepare some 
sandy soil, and to use the framework of an ordinary rough 
box, about 10in. deep, and without either bottom or top. 
Place this on the border, should there be one, put in 
about 3in. of prepared soil, press it firm, and lay some 
sand over the surface. All this should be made ready 
before the cuttings are detached, as they are much 
injured if allowed to lie about, if only for a short 
time, before being inserted. Dibble them in rather close, 
and give a good watering afterwards; make the top as 
nearly as possible air-tight, by fitting large panes of glass 
closely to cover it. 
if this situation is available, but little shading will be 
necessary, and it is best to leave the glass on without 
ever removing it until the cuttings show signs of making 
roots ; air may then be gradually admitted. The young 
plants may be lifted so soon as they are sufficiently 
established, potted up, and placed in a close frame for 
a few days; afterwards harden, and get them well 
ripened before winter. 
Layers. Propagation by layering is a sure method of 
increasing dwarf or weeping Roses that may be brought 
to the ground, but it is not extensively practised. By 
layering in June, and early in July, if suitable, firm 
wood of the current year can be obtained, the rooted 
plants may be detached the following autumn. When 
the work is deferred till later in the season, they are 
not usually ready for removal until the following year. 
Layering with a tongue is the most successful method. 
See Layering. 
Suckers. Suckers are sometimes produced by Roses, 
and may be utilised for increasing stock, if desired. 
They should be taken off in autumn, and planted out 
separately ; if there are no roots, some will generally 
form if the suckers are inserted rather deeply in sandy 
soil, and nursed a little through winter. : 
Sports. Several varieties have originated from sports 
that have been observed on Roses, as well as on many 
other plants, and which arise from some cause which 
seems to affect the colour more than any other quality. 
Sports cannot be artificially produced; all that can be 
done is to perpetuate any which appear, and are worthy 
of it, by one of the ordinary methods of propagation. 
Division. Propagating Roses by division is not much 
practised, but it may be adopted with such as the Fairy 
Rose (R. indica minima), the Scotch Rose (R. spino- 
sissima), and a few others, which spread and grow, as 
it were, into bushes. 
Budding. This is the principal mode of propagating 
Roses, and the operation is one which may be success- 
fully carried out at the proper season, after a little 
practice, by almost anyone. Nurserymen who make Roses 
a speciality have thousands budded annually. Various 
stocks are used, that most extensively employed being, 
perhaps, the common Dog Rose of the hedgerows. 
Stocks obtained from the seed of this plant are also 
much favoured, in some establishments, for dwarf Roses, 
particularly Teas. The Manetti is also largely em- 
ployed. For effecting a union, it is necessary that the 
stock be in a growing state, sufficiently so to allow of its 
bark separating freely from the wood beneath. The buds 
should be dormant, well matured, and preferably ob- 
tained from firm shoots that have borne flowers; sappy 
On the north side of a lean-to house, | 
Rosa—continued. 
wood shoots are unsuitable. The latter part of June,- 
and all through July, is the principal season for Rose- 
budding outside, as the stocks are then in a growing 
state, and plenty of buds are generally obtainable. Under 
glass, and with the stocks established in pots, it may 
be carried out extensively earlier in the season; accord- 
ing as buds can be obtained, the stocks may be introduced 
into a slight warmth, and soon brought into proper con- 
dition. On the process of preparing and inserting buds, 
full information may be found under Budding, where 
also further remarks are made on the various stocks that 
are used for Roses. 
Grafting. This is an effectual mode of Rose propa- 
gation; the whip or splice method and crown-grafting are 
best suited, but the parts rarely unite so well as they 
do when budded. Cleft and saddle-grafting are also 
practicable. Stocks may be of the same sorts as those 
used for budding. The work is performed principally in - 
January and February under glass, and in the open 
air during March. When the stocks are in pots, they 
may be started in a little heat, and so got in advance 
of the scions, which may be procured in about a fort- 
night afterwards from well-ripened, dormant trees out- 
side. After the grafts are inserted, the stocks should be 
returned to the same heat as that in which they have 
been growing, until a union between the parts has taken 
place, when they may be gradually hardened off and 
grown in cooler and more suitable quarters. For de- 
scription of the methods of grafting above named, see 
Grafting. 
CULTIVATION. To grow Roses successfully, a rich 
soil must be provided, such as a deep loam of a 
stiff rather than light nature, although the plants on 
their own roots will thrive better in rather light soils 
than will others worked on the common tall Briar or on 
seedling Briar stocks. The wild Rose grows naturally 
in heavy, clay land; under cultivation, it is, con- 
sequently, best suited with strong soil of a rich nature. 
` Shallow, sandy or gravelly soils are unsuited for Roses, 
and so, on the other hand, are any which are im- 
properly drained. In gardens where Rose-beds have 
to be formed in unfavourable situations, it is best to dig 
out the natural soil in the first place, and replace it with 
a properly-prepared compost; or it may be that changing 
a portion will suffice. A depth of about 13ft. should be 
provided for such strong-growing kinds as most of the 
Hybrid Perpetuals, and a similar depth is advised for 
all Roses if it can be provided. The soil can scarcely 
be made too rich; plenty of manure may be added 
when the ground is being prepared for planting, 
and an annual top-dressing in addition is generally 
found beneficial, and indeed necessary, in the pro- 
duction of good flowers. It may be applied with 
advantage soon after growth commences, in spring; 
the flowering shoots are then pushing up, and need 
plenty, of feeding from the root. Respecting situations, 
there are few in which some representative of this 
beautiful genus may not be grown successfully. It is 
not convenient, nor, perhaps, desirable, to attempt the 
formation of a Rose-garden in all gardens, even when 
they are extensive; but beds of Roses may generally be 
introduced into flower -gardens and pleasure - grounds, 
and any quantity of plants, so far as circumstances and 
space admit, may be put into other positions without 
any fear being entertained of having too many. For 
cutting purposes, in private establishments, it is found 
a good plan to devote a portion of the kitchen garden 
to Rose-growing, where the ground can be well trenched 
previous to planting, and enriched with manure at any 
time when it is considered necessary. For a Rose- 
garden, an open situation is desirable, with a. south or 
south-eastern aspect, and sheltered from other points, par- 
ticularly north and east. Climbing Roses are very 
