AN ENCYCLOPADIA 
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‘Rosa—continued. 
beautiful, and generally very floriferous; they may be 
employed with good effect for covering arches, arbours, 
pillars, &c., and also for training up trees and tall- 
growing shrubs. 
Transplanting of all the more hardy Roses may best be 
done in October. and November. 
others of a tender nature, are generally not safe to with- 
stand the winter unprotected, and are consequently planted 
in spring. Dwarf plants should be allowed a space of 
from 2ft. to 3ft. clear between them, standards not less 
than 3ft. Sometimes, both are planted alternately in 
beds. Roses are better arranged by themselves in this 
way than intermixed with other plants; and this remark 
also applies to the flowers when cut. 
find Roses mixed with well-nigh everything in the way of 
cut flowers that few persons keep them exclusively by 
themselves; but it is only by doing so that their full 
beauty as cut flowers may be seen The foliage, too, that 
belongs to plants from which the flowers have been cut 
‘seems to suit each so well individually that some of it 
should always be used ; the foliage, for instance, from Tea 
Roses does not look well with Hybrid Perpetuals, that 
of neither sort of leaves will do for mixing with flowers 
from any of the species, and so forth. 
The pruning of different Roses depends a good deal 
on the class to which they belong, the way in which 
they are trained, &c. Autumn and spring pruning are 
practised, the latter most extensively, especially since 
the springs of late years have been so precarious. If 
a shoot is shortened back in autumn, the eyes that 
= are left, with the intention of their remaining dormant 
until the following spring, will often be excited into 
growth during winter, because of the prevalence of 
mild weather; they then succumb to the first frost. 
Spring pruning may generally be performed from the 
middle to the end of March; but the season varies 
according to the weather and the state of the trees. 
The young shoots will frequently grow out several 
inches at the top; and although this growth will have to - 
be sacrificed, it would be unsafe to prune, unless the 
season Were sufficiently ‘advanced to insure the develop- 
ment of the eyes that are left, without injury from frost. 
Standard Hybrid Perpetuals have to be cut rather severely 
to keep their heads within limits. All small shoots should 
be kept removed, and the strongest ones allowed plenty 
of space. Dwarf plants of this class may be allowed to 
grow More freely; but the shoots must be kept thinned, 
in order that they may become thoroughly ripened. 
Badly-ripened wood never bears good flowers; it should, 
therefore, in pruning, be removed first, and afterwards 
other shoots which are misplaced or tend to cross each 
other and destroy the form and symmetry of the trees. 
Hybrid Perpetuals may be cut back to from four to 
eight eyes, according to their vigour and habit. Teas, 
in the open air, with a few exceptions, seldom grow 
very vigorously, and a thinning and slight shortening 
Tea varieties, and any 
It is so customary to, 
*— 
of the shoots are often all they need. Hardy Pillar and ` 
Climbing Roses, such as varieties of R. sempervirens, 
may have their lateral growths shortened back after 
flowering; this admits light and air to the others left, 
and but little further pruning will be necessary in 
Spring. If more vigorous shoots are required than those 
which develop, hard pruning to two or three eyes will 
cause their production. The amount of pruning which 
Roses need, and the time and manner of performing the 
Operation, are subjects very widely discussed, and upon 
which much difference of opinion exists. The principal 
conditions are: judgment on the part of the operator, a 
knowledge of the varied habits of Roses, and treatment 
of each individually as its requirements suggest, 
Roses im Pots and under Glass. Greenhouses and 
conservatories without Roses are rarely found, as, fortu- 
nately, no one with a cool glass house need be afraid of 
OF HORTICULTURE. 
Rosa—continued. ac ae 
inserting a plant to cover the back wall or a portion of 
the roof, if pot culture cannot be attempted. The Teas- 
are especially well suited for pots, and also the Hybrid 
Perpetuals ; with a sufficient quantity of plants, and by 
forcing and management, flowers may be obtained nearly 
or quite the whole year through. Plants for pot culture 
are best on their own roots—that is, raised from cuttings 
or layers—but others worked on Manetti stocks or seed- 
ling Briars are available. They may be grown from the 
first in pots, or lifted from the open ground, in September 
or October, and potted. A rich compost of turfy loam 
should be provided, with some decayed manure, charcoal, 
and, if convenient, a few }in. crushed bones intermixed. 
If the plants are intended for forcing, they should be 
established in pots at least for a season; the flowers 
seldom develop properly on those lifted only a short 
time from the open ground. The Hybrid Perpetuals may 
be plunged outside during winter, or until required for 
forcing, and protected with dry litter or bracken; the 
Teas should be placed for safety in a cool house or pit. 
As the growth allowed in pots must be somewhat limited, 
close pruning will be necessary, particularly in the early 
stages of training, and the shoots must always be kept 
well thinned by summer disbudding.’ Established plants 
do not need repotting every year; if their roots are 
-healthy and not pot-bound, a top-dressing of rich soil some- 
times answers better than potting, and liquid manure 
may be given when the flowers are developing. 
For forcing Roses to flower in early spring, artificial 
heat is necessary, and the plants should have been grown 
some time previously in pots, as already noted. After 
being pruned and otherwise prepared, a portion may be 
introduced into a little heat during December, or early 
in January. About 50deg. at first will suffice, but when 
growth commences, and the days lengthen, this may 
gradually be raised to about 65deg., with plenty of air 
on all favourable occasions. Syringing may be practised 
daily until the flowers begin to expand, when the plants 
may be transferred to a cool greenhonse, unless they are 
only required for providing cut flowers, when they should 
be subjected to a cool temperature and plenty of air. 
After flowering, the plants may be placed in a sunny 
position outside until the autumn, but they must not 
be neglected in watering: the proper maturation of the 
wood for the succeeding year must be one of the main 
objects in view. 
Other methods of growing Roses have to be adopted 
when the plants are trained to a greenhouse roof 
or rafter. For this purpose, they are best planted 
in a prepared border, which may usually be made 
inside the house; good soil and drainage must be pro- 
vided here, as in other situations. Nurserymen supply 
pot plants specially grown with long shoots for train- 
ing; or the growths may be easily trained up, if a 
light, suitable position can be provided, which, however, 
is not always convenient when stages and hot-water 
pipes come in the way. Roses permanently planted 
under glass must be allowed their full season of rest 
all the winter; their roots should then be kept mode- 
rately dry, but almost any quantity of water may be 
given during the summer. Thinning of the numerous 
flowerless shoots which appear must be constantly at- 
tended to in the growing season. This will admit light 
and air, and prevent the necessity of removing the large 
quantity of wood at pruning time that would otherwise 
be necessary. Many climbing varieties of Tea Roses 
are unsurpassed amongst greenhouse climbers during 
spring and summer. 
Funar. Several species of Fungi, belonging to widely 
different groups, are parasitic upon the living leaves and 
young branches of cultivated Roses, and many others are 
found growing upon dead and withered parts of the 
plants. The latter do not need further mention, though 
