The Land of the Hills and the Glens 



wind. As Dubh Hirteach is neared, a heavy surf is seen 

 breaking- on the reef lying to the west of the rock on w^hich 

 the hghthouse is built, the spray driving like smoke before 

 the strong wind; and on the rock itself a heavy swell is 

 breaking. 



It is not possible to-day to make a landing direct on 

 to the rock, but the strong motor launch is lowered, and 

 in her the lightkeeper and a small supply of provisions are 

 carried to within a few yards of the rock, and are hoisted 

 on to the latter by means of a derrick. While the relief 

 is being effected, members of the crew are busy fishing 

 over the rails of the steamer, and succeed in landing some 

 good mackerel and saithe. Small birds are flying around, 

 or are sitting lightly on the disturbed surface of the sea, 

 uttering subdued, twittering cries. Their flight reminds one 

 of the phalarope, and they ride on the water with the 

 buoyant grace of these birds, sitting erect with their shapely 

 necks held well above the water's surface. Through the 

 glass one can see that there is much white about their 

 necks, so they are probably not of the red-necked phala- 

 rope species. It may be that they are grey phalaropes on 

 their southern migration, but the rough sea makes observa- 

 tion difficult. I hear that a couple of dunlin are annual 

 visitors to this lonely rock, arriving at the conclusion of the 

 nesting season, and leaving about the end of October. For 

 a number of years they have been welcome visitors, and 

 go by the names of "Tommy" and "Johnny." So fear- 

 less are they that they will come when called, and will 

 feed almost out of the hand. 



The relief effected, the boat heads northwards, and an 

 hour's passage brings us back to the Sound of lona, w^here 

 the steamer is anchored and we are ferried ashore in smooth 

 water. 



114 



