The Land of Tiree 



partly hides the rounded shape of Beinn Talaidh, famous 

 for the line grazing on its slopes. Overlooking the Sound 

 of Mull is Dun da Ghaoithe, only partially seen, and towards 

 the southern end of Mull, Beinn Buie shows its rock-scarred 

 summit. 



There is the home of the spectre of the Macleans, Eog- 

 hainn a' chinn bheag, or "Ewen of the Little Head" — a 

 headless phantom mounted on a black steed, who is heard 

 riding furiously outside the home of any of the clan before an 

 approaching death. The ocean is no barrier to this spectre 

 steed, and the sparks have been seen rising from his feet as 

 he dashes across the rocky shores of Mull on his way to Tiree. 



It is said that during very clear weather the northern 

 coast of Ireland can be made out from the summit of Ceann 

 a' Bharra. I have never had the good fortune to see it, but 

 the distance from this point to Malin Head is not more than 

 sixty-five miles, so I imagine that the higher hills of that 

 district should be visible at times. 



Since no trees can grow on the wind-swept island of 

 Tiree, wood is dear and difficult to obtain, so that most of 

 the crofters' dwellings are constructed of driftwood, carried, 

 maybe, thousands of miles on the Atlantic tides. To with- 

 stand the great gales of winter these houses have strong 

 walls of exceptional thickness, with small windows set in 

 far back. The old earthen floors have been replaced by 

 coverings of wood and stone, and one can now very rarely 

 obtain a " cruisgean " or old-fashioned lamp burning fish oil. 



One by one the old beliefs die out — the fairies are now 

 no more than a name; the water-horse no more inspires a 

 superstitious dread; the half human, half fairy being known 

 as the "Glastig " is no more seen abroad of dark and stormy 

 nights. Yet the natives of this wild island retain all their 

 charm, and in them the true Highland hospitality and 

 simplicity is still strong, for their lives are lived close to 

 the very heart of Nature and they have as their companions 

 all the four winds and the restful spirit of the everchanging 

 ocean. 167 



