62 A BOOK-LOVER'S HOLIDAYS 



passed camp; they were travelling in a wagon 

 drawn by a mule and a horse, and the boys of 

 the family were driving a big herd of sheep and 

 goats. The incident merely illustrated the real 

 progress the Indians are making, and how far 

 they already are from pure savagery. 



Next morning the red dawn and the flushed 

 clouds that heralded the sunrise were very 

 lovely. Only those who live and sleep in the 

 open fully realize the beauty of dawn and moon- 

 light and starlight. As we journeyed southward 

 the land grew more arid; and the water was 

 scarce and bad. In the afternoon we camped 

 on a dry mud-flat, not far from a Navajo sheep- 

 farmer, who soon visited us. Two Navajos 

 were travelling with us; merry, pleasant fellows. 

 One of them had a .22 Winchester rifle, with 

 which he shot a couple of prairie-dogs — which 

 he and his friend roasted whole for their supper, 

 having previously shared ours. 



Next day at noon we climbed the steep, 

 narrow rock ridge on whose summit rise the 

 three Hopi towns at one of which, Walpi, the 

 snake-dance was to be held. The clustered 

 rock villages stood in bold outline, on the cliff 

 top, against the blue sky. In all America there 

 is no more strikingly picturesque sight. 



