ACROSS THE ANDES 147 



where we stopped four Indians came in to see 

 us. The chief or head man looked Uke a thor- 

 ough Indian. He might have been a Sioux or 

 a Comanche. One of his companions was ap- 

 parently a half-breed, showing strong Indian 

 features, however. A third had a full beard, 

 and, though he certainly did not look quite hke 

 a white man, no less certainly he did not look 

 like an Indian. The fourth was considerably 

 more white than Indian. He had a long beard, 

 being dressed, as were the others, in shabby 

 white man's garb. He looked much more like 

 one of the poorer class of Boers than like any 

 Indian I have ever seen. I noticed this man 

 talking to two of the mounted police. They 

 were smart, well-set-up men, thoroughly iden- 

 tified with the rest of the population, and re- 

 garding themselves and being regarded by 

 others as on the same level with their fellow 

 citizens. Yet they were obviously far more 

 Indian in blood than was the unkempt, bearded 

 white man to whom they were talking, and 

 whom they and their fellows spoke of as an 

 Indian, while they spoke of themselves, and 

 were spoken of by others, as ''Christians." 

 ''Indian" was the term reserved for the Indians 

 who were still pagans and who still kept up a 

 certain tribal relation. Whenever an Indian 



