Hiller.] «^'^'* [Dec. 18, 



must be lianled, for they are too heavy to be carried. This labor takes 

 a day at least and often two are consumed before tranquil water permits 

 of the use of the paddle. It requires about two days to traverse the 

 table-land that reaches as far as Dian's house, and nothing breaks the 

 monotony of low jungle-lined shore save an occasional hawk or mon- 

 key, nor the intense quiet of the day save the regular click clack of the 

 paddles against the boat's side as they fall in the measured stroke. 



When the second rapids are reached, the scenery improves ; the low 

 hills are backed by higher hills, and along the reaches of the river the 

 mountains in the interior raise their purple peaks many thousand feet 

 against the sky, rocky banks succeed the low muddy shores and habita- 

 tions become more frequent. But the ascent becomes more and more diffi- 

 cult, and every mile brings its rapids or small cascade, nor is there any im- 

 provement the fiirther one ascends, and before the last houses are reached 

 the canoes must be abandoned, yet the way still leads up the bed of the 

 stream. The descent, on the other hand, can be accomplished in one- 

 third the time — Avliere you ascended onlj^ by the utmost exertion, haul- 

 ing by rattans, poling or even clinging on with the hands to the stones 

 and branches, you can shoot down at a terrific gait. A steersman stand- 

 in g in the stern and one in the prow guide the boat in and out among 

 the rocks — avoiding the cliff's against whose bases the current seems sure 

 to drive them, or holding the canoe straight as it leaps the small cas- 

 cades. Few sports are more exhilarating, though many are less dan- 

 gerous, and the " r-i-p " a jagged rock makes when the boat plunges on 

 it, is not the most musical sound in the world, even to an old boatman, 

 and it is almost certain death to be upset on the rapids. 



We secured eleven Kayans to take us from Kappit to Belaga — all young 

 men ranging from fifteen to twenty years old, yet from their life-long 

 experience on the river they were skillful boatmen. We had in addi- 

 tion one child of seven or eight years old, for you seldom see a boat 

 without these nimble and useful assistants. They act as servants to all, 

 in fetching and carrying and are never treated as children, but are made 

 to do a man's part, to suffer and endure as far as their youtli and 

 strength will allow. Yet they are not abused, and one and all assist or 

 help them the moment they get into difficulties. The eldest of the 

 party usually acts as head man, deciding on the camping ground, urging 

 the men on to work when they grow lazy or sleepy, and calling them 

 back into stroke when the paddles fail to fall in time. There is usually 

 a wag, who keeps them all merry and often relieves the tedium of the 

 long afternoons by reciting deeds of valor, anecdotes or even jests, while 

 at the end of each line the otliers join in a chorus and for the time 

 fatigue is forgotten and the paddles fall in rhythm. 



There are others who say but little, yet who move to the prow and 

 stern as steersmen when the dangerous places are reached. Some are 



