122 THE DICTIONARY 
OF GARDENING, 
. Asparagus—continued. 
depends on the size of garden, and the class of “ grass” 
desired. When very large and fine stocks are the object in 
view, the best results will accrue if the plants are fully a 
yard apart each way; but this means a comparatively small 
crop. A good plan is to make the beds 3ft. wide, planting 
two rows, at a distance of 1ft. from each other, and allowing 
18in. between each plant, placing them in alternate order. 
An 18in. alley should be allowed between the beds. The 
roots used for making the beds should be one year old, and 
fresh from the ground. In planting, pull out a wide drill 
with a hoe, or other tool, to the depth of about 3in. or 4in., 
and spread out the roots all round. Carefully shake the 
soil in amongst the roots, and, if dry, apply some water 
through a coarse-roscd watering pot, to settle the earth 
around them. At intervals, as necessary, give other water- 
ings till September, when they should be discontinued. 
At all times, keep the beds free from weeds, removing 
them by the hand to prevent injury to the crowns of 
the plants. If the ground is good, no liquid manure will 
be needed the first year. As soon as the foliage turns 
yellow, cut it off, cleanly rake over the beds, and leave till 
about January, when a top-dressing of from lin. to 3in. of 
thoroughly rotted manure may be applied with advantage. 
At the end of February, rake off the bed all loose straw or 
Fic. 160. ASPARAGUS, Crown for Lifting. 
other debris, and throw on them a little of the soil from 
the alleys, raking down, and finishing off the edges squarely 
and neatly. During this and succeeding years, apply 
liquid manure and clear water, from time to time, as 
required; and, „provided the manure is not of too great 
strength, there is scarcely any limit to its application; but, 
in many instances, beds which have only received an annual 
dressing have given a good return. Each year they must 
be cut over and dressed as before described, but care must 
be taken to keep them flat on the surface, otherwise the 
plants will die out for want of moisture, When the pro- 
duce appears, the beds should be kept cut over until the 
20th of June, after which, cutting should cease, or they will 
be rendered comparatively unproductive. Cutting can 
comm nce the second or third year, or as soon as there is 
any “grass” worth taking. Several methods of growing 
these plants could be cited, but that which we have recom- 
mended will be found most satisfactory, 
Seeds. Plants are raised by sowing seeds in rows across | 
the kitchen garden, or selected quarter, about the month of 
April. The seedlings make a growth, and form good plants 
_ daring the first season. In March or April of the following 
year, or the year after, they may be removed, and planted 
| 
| 
Asparagus—continued. 
out permanently, as already alluded to. Many cultivators 
prefer growing their own plants from seed; because during 
the transit of the roots from any distance to where they are 
to be grown, a frequent and injurious exhaustion takes 
place, and particularly so when they are carelessly packed. 
Forcing. Asparagus can, if properly treated, be obtained 
from December onwards; and at Christmas time the 
produce is very valuable; but, in order to obtain it 
at this season, it will be necessary to resort to forcing. 
Prepare some beds to secure a lasting heat, and on these 
place about 3in. of ordinary garden soil, not very stiff. Then 
take the roots, and place them crown upwards, and mode- 
rately close together, shaking the soil well amongst the 
roots, and covering about a couple of inches deep. Water 
well, to settle the whole, and put on the lights, allowing a 
little ventilation, to let out any steam which may arise. 
Unless the weather be very cold indeed, give a little air at 
all times, and only cover the lights in actual frost. From 
time to time, apply fresh linings of hot manure, and in cold 
rains, or wind, cover the outsides of the frames with old sacks, 
or other things which will keep in the heat. A regular and 
steady temperature of 60deg. will force this plant with 
better results than a higher one. Houses that are fitted with 
hot-water pipes to give bottom heat can be used equally as 
well as manure beds, and so long as the soil is 
kept moist, the heat thus obtained is as good 
as any for the purpose, and much less trouble 
than fermenting materials. To keep up a 
regular supply, a succession of beds will be 
necessary. Asparagus can be forced, or rather 
forwarded, in pots or boxes, in a warm green- 
house or vinery, and, of course, when the plants 
are done with, they can be cast away. We 
give an illustration (Fig. 160) of a bearing 
crown fit for gentle forcing; but, of. course, it 
must not be left so bare of earth as appears 
ness. 
Varieties. Connover'’s Colossal, and Giant, 
are the most esteemed. Strains are frequently 
largely advertised as improvements on the 
sorts above-mentioned, and the charges are 
higher accordingly. The difference may be 
generally attributed to the culture the plants 
receive more ‘than to an improved variety. 
When saving seed for home sowing, they 
should be taken from the strongest growths, 
or deterioration will ensue. 
A, zthiopicus ternifolius (ternate). jl. white, in 
_ Shortly-stalked racemes, very profuse. ugust. l, 
false ones in threes, flattened, narrow, linear; prickles soli- 
tary, reversed ; branches angular, h. 30ft. South Africa, 1872. 
A greenhouse evergreen. 
A. Broussoneti (Broussonet’s).* fl. very small, succeeded by 
small red berries. May. l, lower ones solitary, the others ter- 
nate, lin. long, needle-shaped, persistent, distant, glaucescent ; 
stipules with reflected spines at the base. Summer. Stem 
tapering, streaked, shrubby. h. 10ft. Canary Islands, 1822, A 
very pretty hardy climber. 
A. Cooperi (Cooper's), fi. axillary, one to three, from the same 
nodes as the false leaves; perianth cream-coloured, one line long. 
April and May. l. minute, deltoid, scariose, reddish-brown ; false 
leaves six to fifteen to a node, subulate, moderately firm, pe 
to žin. long, spreading or ascending. A. 10ft. tol2ft. Africa, 1 
A greenhouse climber, with a shrubby terete main stem, 1jin. to 
Zin, thick at the base, sending out crowds of spreading branches, 
which bear abundant slender, firm, alternate branchlets ; nodes of 
branches and branchlets, furnished with distinct red-brown, subu- 
late prickles, those of the main stems jin. long, deflexed, but not 
curved. 
A. decumbens (decumbent).* Stem unarmed, decumbent, much 
branched ; branches wavy ; leaves setaceous, in threes. Cape of 
Good Hope, 1792. A greenhouse evergreen herbaceous perennial. 
A. falcatus (hooked-leaved). J. fascicled, linear, falcate; branches 
round; prickles solitary, recurved; peduncles one-flowered, 
clustered, h. 3ft, India, 1792. A greenhouse evergreen peren- 
A. officinalis (officinal), Common Asparagus greenish- 
white, drooping. ppe 5 e 
here, which is done for the purpose of clear- 
l. setaceous, fasciculate, flexible, — 
Rees 
