AN ENCYCLOPADIA 
OF HORTICULTURE. 163 
Beans—continued. 
BROAD AND LONG-PODDED (Faba vulgaris). Cultiva- 
tion: As early as possible in the autumn, deeply trench 
a piece of ground, and work in a heavy dressing of manure, 
leaving the surface of the soil in ridges, to become well 
aérated by winter frosts. Where desired, a piece of 
ground on a warm, protected border, can also be deeply 
dug in November, and a few rows of Mazagans sown to 
stand the winter. When up, draw a ridge of soil on 
either side the rows, and in frosty weather strew a few 
handfuls of bracken, or other light, dry litter, over them. 
Not much is, however, gained by this winter sowing. 
Early in January, level the ridges with a fork, working 
the whole of the surface soil over, and towards the 
end of the month, make the first sowing, choosing 
Mazagan and other early varieties. Mark out two rows, 
9in. asunder, leave a space of 30in., then another two 
rows, and so on throughout the piece sown. If preferred, 
they may be sown in single rows at intervals of 14ft. 
The drills should be about 3in. deep, and the seed from 
Zin. to 9in. apart in the rows. Where the double-row 
system is adopted, arrange the seed for the plants to come 
alternately. In March, get in the main sowing of the 
Broad and later Long-podded kinds, in the manner already 
described; another sowing for late use may be made in 
April. When the plants are about Gin. high, earth up as 
recommended for those sown in the autumn. As soon as 
a good crop is set, pinch out the tops of the plants, to assist 
the maturation of the Beans, and prevent the attacks of the 
fly. Figs. 209, 210, and 211 are excellent representations 
of the flowering plant, pods, and seed of the Broad Bean. 
Sorts. For early use: Early Mazagan, Long-pod, Mar- 
shall’s Harly Prolific, and Seville Long-pod. For late use: 
Carter’s Mammoth Long-pod, and Broad Windsor (white 
variety). These are all distinct and good varieties. 
Fig. 212. FRUITING PLANT OF DWARF OR FRENCH BEAN 
(PHASEOLUS VULGARIS). 
Dwarr or Frencn Kipney Beans (Phaseolus vulgaris). 
ultivation: This class (see Fig. 212) also requires a rich 
and deeply trenched rather light soil. A very important 
point is to get the ground into a good condition, by fre- 
quently forking it over; and, as the seeds are not sown 
till the beginning of May, there is plenty of time for the 
work. The finer the soil is, and the more it is aérated, 
the better will it suit the crop. From the beginning of 
May till the end of June, at intervals, draw out drills 
about 2ft. apart, and Sin. deep, and in these place the 
pags sagir thick, as generally they are not all certain 
grow. soon as up, carefully thin them, and slightly 
earth up to prevent the wind blowing them about. They 
- 
Beans—continued. 
should not, however, be earthed higher than the seed leaves, 
or they will probably rot off in wet weather. Keep free 
from weeds, and maintain a sharp look out for slugs. In 
dry weather, water occasionally, giving good drenchings, 
and not mere sprinklings, which do more harm than good. 
A good mulching of half-rotted manure is very beneficial, 
as it prevents evaporation to-a great extent, besides afford- 
ing some amount of nourishment to the plants. Great care 
must be taken to pick off the Beans as soon as large enough 
for use, or they will exhaust the plants. Where seeds are 
needed, a number of plants should be left for the purpose, 
and these should be some of the best, to prevent deteriora- 
tion, or loss of the true variety. 
Forcing. French Beans require more heat than can be 
obtained in either a frame or an ordinary greenhouse; and, 
although easy enough to grow in a structure suited to their 
requirements, yet, iffsuch does not exist, they are almost 
sure to fail. A good heat, from 60deg. to 70deg., with 
abundance of moisture, is necessary for successful results. 
Plenty of light is also most essential. A position such as 
that of a cucumber house is generally a suitable one; but 
the plants must not be placed under the cucumbers. Suc- 
cessional sowings in pots or boxes must be made, from the 
end of August till March, to keep up a supply. For soil, 
use good maiden loam, with a little well-rotted manure 
added. Use 8in. pots, sowing five or six beans in each. 
The first sowing should be placed in a frame and kept 
well watered, bringing into heat in October; but the sub- 
sequent sowings should be placed directly in the house. 
Keep the soil moist, and the plants free from aphides 
and other insect pests, and give air at every favourable 
opportunity. The plants should be as near the light as 
possible, and kept from falling about by tying or placing 
small pieces of Birch wood round them. In dull weather, 
it will be found that the blooms will not set so freely as 
when the sun shines brightly ; therefore, every care should 
be taken to secure both heat and ventilation when sun- 
shine prevails. When the pots get full of roots, and the 
plants are bearing fruit freely, a little liquid manure is of 
great assistance; at no time must the plants get dry 
enough to flag. Allow plenty of room for the full de- 
velopment of foliage, and maintain a minimum temperature 
of 60deg., with plenty of moisture. __ $ 
Sorts. These are very numerous, among the best being 
Black Negro, Canadian Wonder, Canterbury, Fulmer’s 
Forcing, Golden Dun, Newington Wonder, Osborn’s Early 
Forcing, Sion House, and Sir Joseph Paxton. 
RUNNERS OR CLIMBING KipnEy Beans (Phaseolus 
multiflorus). Cultivation: Being tall growers, these need 
a greater space than the Dwarf French varieties, and 
they also require support. Rich soil is indispensable for 
them, and liberal supplies of water on light soils and 
in dry weather. A good overhead syringing from time 
to time is also advantageous. Trench and heavily manure 
a piece of ground in autumn, leaving it in ridges for 
the winter. In March, level the ridges down, and well 
work the ground, to render it friable and in good con- 
dition. The plants being extremely tender, it is not safe 
to sow before the end of April or the first week in May. 
It is preferable to sow in rows, which should be from 
6ft. to 12ft. apart, and crop the ground between with 
other vegetables. arth up and stake them as soon 
ready, to prevent injury from rough wind. A good 
which may be adopted to obtain early produce, is 
raise the seeds in boxes in a cold frame, getting them 
ready for planting out in the middle of May. Plant at 
the same distances, and treat afterwards as recommended 
for those sown out of doors. e 
If preferred, they can be grown on the ground without 
stakes, Under this treatment, they must have their tops 
` pinched off when about 18in. high, continuing this pinch- 
ing from time to time as necessary. If this plan is 
adopted, the rows need only be 3ft. apart, the ground 
