220 
THE DICTIONARY OF GARDENING, 
Budding—continued. 
ground to 1ft. above; standards and riders from 3ft. to 9ft.; 
cordons, pyramids, &c., can hardly be budded too low. 
Rose Budding. Propagation of Roses by Budding is 
very extensively practised both with standard trees and 
= dwarf plants. It is perhaps easier and more certain to 
succeed with these than with fruit trees; but the mode 
adopted is precisely the same—that of the shield-shaped 
Bud with the core, or root, and the bark attached. For 
standards, the common briar of the Dog Rose is the best. 
The earlier these are obtained and planted in November, the - 
better, as roots are then formed at once. For dwarf plants, 
the Manetti stock is mostly used, being easily 
obtained and had in proper condition almost at 
any time when Buds are ready. Plants on this 
stock do not succeed in all soils, and suckers 
are also very liable to be produced. Budding on 
the seedling briar is attended with good results, 
and is practised more than hitherto. The De la 
Grifferaie stock is also used, more for Tea Roses 
than others, and is considered by some to pro- 
duce better plants than the Manetti. The shoots 
on standard briars should be reduced to about 
three of the strongest, selected as close together 
as possible, and near the top, the briars having 
been previously cut back the desired height at 
planting time. Two Buds are sufficient for a 
good head; but, for certainty, three may be in- 
serted. Fig. 291 represents a tall briar with three 
shoots; a shows the shoot slit for the Bud; b, 
the Bud inserted ; c, the Bud tied in. Fig. 292 
is a branch showing Buds, the lowest ones of 
which are most suitable, being in firmer wood. 
Fic. 292, Those at the top are often useless. Fig. 293 
represents a Bud taken from Fig. 292, a, b, and 
Fig. 294 gives an idea of how the wood is removed. As 
previously remarked when describing the system, ex- 
perienced Budders remove the wood from either end. 
Fig. 294 shows its removal from the lower end. 
Fig. 293 
Budding as close as possible to the main stem is most 
desirable. Raffia grass is superior in every way for tying, 
which should be performed as soon after the Bud is inserted 
Fig. 294, 
Fig. 295. 
as possible. It requires much care, and, of course, the 
Bud itself must be entirely free. As soon as the Buds 
Budding —continued. 
swell, the tying material should be loosened, and the 
top of the stock cut back to the level of the budded 
shoot. By Budding late, the Buds lie dormant till the next 
spring, and the necessity of tying the young shoots is 
dispensed with for that season. The shoots of the briar in 
advance of the Rose Buds must be cut back, as shown in 
Fig. 295, so soon as the Buds are safely established. The 
Manetti and other dwarf stocks are budded on the main 
shoot nearly close to, or underneath the ground, and if low 
enough to cover part of the rose stem when grown, the 
latter often roots as well and assists the stock. Being 
small, they may be grown in pots and removed to the 
required position at any time. 
Dog Roses, used for standards, are usually collected from 
hedgerows, and sold at about 8s. per hundred. Manetti 
stocks are increased by cuttings, which, after making one 
season’s good growth, will be fit for use. Briars are raised 
from seed, which may be collected from hedges, and sown 
in the autumn, in drills. The seedlings should be trans- 
planted the first year after sowing, and the following season 
they will be ready for working. 
BUDDING KNIVES. The best Budding Knives 
are those manufactured by Messrs. Saynor and Co., and 
Messrs. G. Hall and Son. They are made with handles of 
ivory, shaped in different ways at the end, for the purpose 
of opening the bark, in order to insert the Bud. Some 
of the blades are made with the edge rounded at the point, 
so as to cut the bark without the knife entering the wood 
underneath (see Figs. 296 and 297). Others, which may be 
Fia. 300. 
BUDDING KNIVES. 
used for Budding, and are much better for ordinary use for 
cutting flowers, &c., are made with the edge of the blade 
carried to a point, as in ordinary knives (see Figs. 298 
and 299). Another form has the handle made of some 
other material, and a piece of ivory inserted for opening 
the bark; this is represented in Fig. 300. The first-named 
is the best, if required for Budding only; the second is the 
most useful for ordinary purposes, and answers admirably 
for Budding as well. None of the other shapes have any 
- material advantages over these. 
BUDDLEIA (named after Adam Buddle, who is so 
often mentioned in Ray’s “Synopsis”; his collection of dried 
British plants is preserved in the British Museum). ORD. 
Loganiacee. A large genus of stove, greenhouse, or half- 
hardy shrubs. Flowers small, often tomentose, axillary, 
spicate, capitate, or thyrsoid; calyx equally four-toothed ; 
corolla tubular-campanulate, regular; limb spreading, four- 
toothed. Leaves opposite, reticulately veined. Branches 
quadrangular. 
