8 



HORTICULTURE 



January 6, 1906 



newer and more intensely colored varieties are more 

 difficult of culture and possessed oi Less enduring pow- 

 er than the older varieties. 



Years ago authorities would have it that in order to 

 produce good dracaenas their growth had to be exceed- 

 ingly rapid and in a high temperature; no doubt, plants 

 grown in tins manner were rushed into maturity rapidly. 

 but their decline was just as rapid as their advance 

 and in the mam they were of no practical value as 

 dwelling house plants. Contrary to this method of 

 growing dracaenas is the mode pursued now of growing 

 them in a moderate temperature. By this I mean a 

 house wherein the temperature may be as low as 58 de- 

 grees in zero weather outside; of course a temperature 

 a little higher is preferable, but dracaenas have nour- 

 ished without the loss of a leaf when exposed to the 

 temperature stated and in addition matured to good en- 

 during specimens, six of which took first premium at 

 an exhibition the following fall. 



There are various methods of propagating dracaenas, 

 but the most prolific and interesting method of propa- 

 gating existing varieties is by root and stem cuttings. 

 When from use or through any other cause large plants 

 have Lost their bottom leaves, cut off the top about an 

 inch below the lower leaves; this top put into a small 

 pot in a compost of leaf mould and sand, placing the 

 small pot into which the top has been put into a much 

 Larger one: this precaution will keep the heavy top from 

 shaking ami will also add to the available supply of 

 moisture around the base; when done place it either in a 

 propagating frame or on a bench having bottom heat 

 underneath. This disposes of the top of the old plant 

 for four or five weeks, when it should be rooted and a 

 useful subject again. Now for the remaining part of 

 the stem and the thick fleshy root.-. These cut up into 

 small piece- no! more than an inch and a half in length 

 and place them close together j n a flat the bottom of 

 which ought to have a sod laid on with the grass side 

 down; unless the box or flat is very deep no more drain- 

 age is needed. Cover the piece- to the extent of about 



an inch with clean sand and leaf mould, then place the 

 box over the pipes, keeping tin' soil continually moist 

 without overwatering to the extent of soaking. 



The cuttings can also be put m -and in a propagating 



bench, but small plants 1 ted in a mixture of sand and 



leaf mould are not liable to be checked when potted as 

 these rooted in -ami alone. When the young shoots are 

 about "> L-2 or 4 inches over the surface they can lie 

 severed from the stock with a knife, care being taken to 

 take only those rooted; these may then be potted into 

 small pot- and need not he cut and rerooted again unless 

 they get lanky, which seldom occurs if they arc removed 

 early enough at first. One piece of stock will likely -end 

 up many young plants, therefore if it is necessary to 



lift the | :es of stock to remove the voting plants, put 



the -tuck back- again, repenting the process until the 

 -link is exhausted. 



Some growers -till persist in mossing the tops of old 

 plants, which no doubt is a safe method to pursue, al- 



though no more so than the other, ami by no means as 



expeditious. 



DTacaenas in all stages of growth, in order to grow 

 well, must have moisture all around them and always a 

 little heat underneath. As has already been said they 

 will stand and thrive in a comparatively low temperature 

 if properly brought up to it, but they will not thrive in 

 .-. house without moisture nor without bottom heat. In 

 order to keep the plants in a vigorous condition it is 

 essential that they be syringed regularly from under- 

 neath the foliage as well as given frequent showers from 

 overhead. 



Forcing Rhubarb 



Persons who like to dabble in market gardening for 

 pleasure or profit, will find both in raising rhubarb in- 

 doors. Simple and easily carried out are the essentials 

 for a good crop. The roots are dug in the fall when the 

 ground begins to freeze, and are stored somewhere out- 

 of-doors where they will be easy to get at when the time 

 comes to plant. They need no protection from climatic 

 conditions. Big, healthy four-year-old roots are best 

 of any early or medium early large-stalked variety. 

 Planting may be done at any time after the plants get a 

 short rest. 



The beds are made in any old cellar, pit. frame, cave, 

 or under greenhouse benches, where the temperature 

 will not fall below 45 degrees. The darker it is the 

 better, as lack of light causes the plants to send up 

 stalks with little leaf surface, just what one desires. 

 The soil is removed to a depth of about one foot from 

 the space desired for a bed. Then an even lay of fresh 

 In use manure is put in to a depth of four inches — if 

 strawy it will make no difference — followed by two 

 inches of good Loam. The plants are placed on this 

 about one foot apart, and then filled around with any 

 handy material, such as the soil removed at the start. 

 Give a good watering and exclude all light possible by 

 means of boards, old carpets nailed up, or some such 

 method. Some people use -traw or hay. thickly cover- 

 ing I he bed-. Inn it is not a- satisfactory for it keeps 

 the ground cold, smells bad. makes the stalks spindling, 

 and the bed is longer coming to maturity. If any of 

 the sides of the trench are next to walls they should be 

 lined with boards on those sides, and hay or sawdust 

 packed in back of these, building up a foot or so above 

 the surface of the ground to insure keeping out the 

 frost. 



Now you may sit down and wait for the crop. Be- 

 sides mi occasional watering if the bed becomes dry. 

 no further care is required. The bed will begin to bear 

 in from one to two or three months, the time varying 

 with vitality and size of plants, temperature of beds, 

 time of planting, etc. 



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