47 



Concrete Fence Posts 



Tlie following directions for fabricating reinforced concrete 

 fence posts are gi\'en by Mr. H. G. Groves in the New Zealand 

 Journal of Agriculture of December 20, 1918, and are repeated 

 here briefly for the benefit of the readers of the Forester who 

 have cause to construct fences of a lasting character. 



Clean sharp gravel with plenty of sand in it is required for 

 making concrete posts. The gravel should not be coarse and 

 for best results no stone in it should be larger than a walnut. 



The mould should be 5 in. by 4 in. at the bottom, 4 in. by 4 in. 

 at the top, and 6 ft. 3 in. long, inside measurements. Cut the 

 sides of the mould 6 ft. 3^ in. long, bottom end 8>^ in. long, 

 and top end 7j/^ in. long; all timber being 4 in. wide. Mortise 

 the sides into the ends % in. deep, allowing 1 in. outside of mor- 

 tise each side of the mould. This saves splitting when nailing to- 

 gether. Use 1 in. timber for the ends, and 34 in. timber for the 

 sides. Nail the sides and ends together, lay on a board, tack 

 a cleat on either side of the mould and hold it in position, and 

 it is then ready for use. The timber should be planed smooth 

 for the inside of the mould and the mould should be wet wdien 

 the concrete is poured in. 



Use Ave parts of gravel to one of cement. Five buckets of 

 gravel and one of cement make three posts and a little over. 

 Turn over the gravel and cement in the dry state, then water 

 and turn twice or more while wet. Do not apply too much water 

 to the mixture at first. Dampen and then keep adding \vater 

 as the turning proceeds until the mixture is the consistency of 

 mush. It is better to have the mixture too wet than too dry, 

 since it is then more easily puddled in the mould and sets better. 

 If the mixture is too wet the water in it comes to the top as 

 it is being w^orked into the mould and runs over the sides, 

 taking cement and fine sand wnth it, wdiich means wasted 

 strength. A few mixings will give the experience required to 

 know w^hen the mixture is about right. A bricklayer's trowel 

 and a plasterer's float are all the tools required for working the 

 concrete in the moulds ; any handy man can make the float. 



Put 2 in. of concrete in the mould and puddle well, using the 

 float to pack it tight, especially into the corners, then work fhi 

 trowel along the sides and ends. Doing this works the fine ma- 

 terial out to the sides and makes a smooth and even surface on 

 the posts. For reinforcing now lay two wires cut the length 

 of the mould on top of the concrete, and fill the mould a litile 

 overfull. Push two more wnres into the concrete, puddle well, 

 being pa'-ticular to \vork the trow^el along the sides and ends, 

 then finish off bv working the trow^el along the top of the mould 

 to remove surplus material. In place of the last two wires a 



