4(> 



THE GARDENER'S MOS'J III. ) 



\^Jul)niiltry,. 



rP<xrettod, since the iin|)r()ve(l seedliiiirs of lar^r 

 size and tine (inaltity, raised from tin- hardier 

 Ameriean species, are becoming known, and 

 their merits appreciated by "growers. 



The rnh'. in primins:; <j;rape-vines, is to shorten 

 the sho(tts in proportion to their strenLTtli ; but if 

 the advice we have pivon in former Summer 

 hints has been attended to, there will be little 

 disproportion in this matter, as Summer pinchinj^ 

 of the strong shoots has equalized the strength 

 of the vine. Those who are following any par- 

 ticular system will, of course, prune according 

 to the rules comprising such system. As a gen- 

 eral rule, we can only say, excellent grapes can 

 be had by any system of pruning; for the only 

 object of pruning in any case is to get strong 

 shoots to push where they may be desired, or to 

 increase, with the increased vigor of the shoot, 

 which pruning supposes will follow the act, in- 

 creased size in the fruit it bears. 



In the Xorthern States, Broccoli, and Cauli- 

 flower when sown in March as recommended, do 

 not head early enough in Fall. It should be 

 sown about the time of Early York Cabbage, in 

 the hot-bed, during this month. 



About the middle or end of the month, or still 

 later in the Xorth — say the middle of March — 

 Celery and late Cabbage may be sown. Here, 

 we usually sow the second week in March. 



In the more Southern States, the gardener will 

 lose no time in getting in his Potatoes, Beets, 

 Carrots, Parsnips, Peas, Spinach, Radishes, Let- 

 tuce, Onions, and Salsafy. These should be the 

 first crops put in after the season breaks up for 

 good. The earlier they are in the better. As- 

 paragus, Rhubarb and Horse-radish beds may 

 now be made. Asparagus roots are generally 

 planted too thickly to produce fine shoots,— 

 they starve one another. A bed five feet wide 

 should have three rows, and the plants set about 

 eighteen inches apart. A deep soil is very im- 

 portant, as the succulent stems require every 

 chance they can get for obtaining moisture. 

 About four inches beneath the soil is sutKcient 

 to plant them. Rhubarb also requires a deep, 

 rich and moist soil. Horse-radish beds are Ijest 

 made by taking pieces of strong roots, about one. 

 inch long, and making a hole about a foot or 

 fifteen inches deep, with a dibble, and dropping 

 the piece to the bottom of the hole ; a clean, 

 straight root will then rise up through the soil. 

 Crowns or eyes are better than pieces of roots, — 

 where they can be had— and a rich clayey soil 

 better than a light sandv one. 



In the Midfllf States the work for February 

 will, for the most part, consist of preparation.^ 

 for future operations, and particulary for deal- 

 ing with the manure (juestitjn. All those kinds 

 that are grown for their leaves or stems refjuire 

 an al)un(lance of nitr()genous manures; and it 

 is useless to attempt vegetal)le gardening witliout 

 it. To this class belong Cabbage Lettuce. 

 Spinach, etc. The other class, which is grown 

 principally for its seeds or pods (as Beans, Peas, 

 etc.), does not require much manure of this char-^ 

 acter; in fact they are injured by it. It causes 

 too great a growth of stem and leaf, and the 

 earliness — a great aim in vegetable growing — is 

 injuriously affected. Mineral manures, as wood, 

 ashes, bone-dust, etc., ai'c much better for them. 

 For vegetables requiring rich stable manure, it 

 is better that they have it well rotted and de- 

 cayed. Nothing has yet been found .so well 

 fitted for the purpose as old hot-bed dung : 

 though to the smell no trace of "ammonia" re-^ 

 mains in it. 



One of our most interesting parts of a vegeta-^ 

 ble garden is a hot bed for starting seeds early. 

 The end of the month will be time enough for 

 those who have not command of a large supply 

 of stable manure, as the very low temperature 

 we often get at the end of the month soon ab- 

 sorbs all the heat the hot-bed possessed. It is in 

 any event best to put up the beds in 'the warmest 

 and most sheltered spots we can find, and to 

 keep cold winds from the manure, by covering it 

 with branches of trees or mats ; and the glas.s 

 should always be covered with mats at night- 

 Tomatoes, Egg-plants, Peppers and Cucumbers 

 are the first seeds to be sow^n this way. Cooler 

 frames can be got ready for Cauliflower, Lettuce,. 

 Beets, Celery and Early York Cabbage, a little 

 of which may be .sown about the end of the 

 month for the earliest crop. The Caulifiower i*. 

 a particularly valued vegetable, and no expense 

 spared to get them in perfection will be regretted, 

 when one's eftorts are successful. 



In the open air, should the weather prove 

 favorable, as it often is about the end of the 

 month. Peas and Potatoes may be planted- 

 Frost seldom gets deep enough in new dug 

 ground to injure them after this date. 



In managing the vegetable garden the highest 

 excellence should l)e aimed at. This is the chief 

 source of pleasure in a garden. If one can take 

 no pleasure in his garden — if the watching of the 

 beautiful processes of nature in furnishing him 

 food — and the many lessons they teach him,. 



