PLANTING AND PRUNING. 



to leave all those limbs, which, by the suppression of corresponding roots, cannot 

 get their supply of sap ; and, as there cannot be a stop in Nature's laws and in 

 the natural process of vegetation, sickness and atrophy are the result of that rather 

 overrated system. I have always found a good result in moderate pruning of 

 limbs, and, of course, in a more restrained and equal distribution of the sap 

 than in no pruning at all. A planted tree must start readily, handsomely, or it 

 is a lost tree ; for, years afterwards, the principium mo7-hidum, the hidden death- 

 stroke will come up and show itself outside. 



If I have to remove a stout limb, destroying the harmony of a fine tree, I cut 

 it some inches from its base so as not to make a large wound immediately on the 

 main body; next year it will be time enough, and just the proper time, to cut it 

 close, the tree having regained all its strength and its healing power. 



And as to the practice of watering the planted tree, or, as it is termed, to pud- 

 dle it, this will answer well enough in silicious soil, but in clay or any stiff soil, it 

 will result in casting the roots as in a mould of baked earth, which, if copious 

 rains do not come in time, will prevent the shooting out (or formation) of the 

 delicate fibres or rootlets. I do not often recur to this method, unless I have to 

 plant in very wet soil, and in a hurry ; for then it is better to have a thorough 

 puddle than lumps that will not fill up the interstices. 



It is good, also, to cover the foot of the planted trees with any kind of brush, 

 leaves, withered herbs, decayed straw, or even stable manure, if not rich nor fresh ; 

 for, I do not like fresh manure near the newly-planted tree. This ought to be 

 done after a good copious shower has settled the roots, and immediately before 

 the heavy frost sets in. If you do it too early, you often make a good recess and 

 wintering place for bugs, worms, mice, &c., which will creep and flock together 

 under this protection. If you have no leaves, or salt hay at hand, cover with 

 stones, and let these remain on the foot of the tree all the next spring and sum- 

 mer. Old planted trees can be mulched with good manure at the same time, say 

 late in October, or beginning of November, even after the first slight frost ; the 

 manure ought to be placed in a circle at least half a foot from the body of the 

 tree, where it does no good, rather producing injury; and extending in a radius of 

 three feet circular. Let us always mind that the tree does not take up its food 

 close to its body, but far, far off, with its spongioles or small roots, its natural 

 suckers ; a thick root is of no use save as a pipe or channel to receive the nutri- 

 tious sap brought from the extremities. 



Never plant too deep ; more trees are killed by that old erroneous process than 

 by any other cause. Nature will show you what you have to do. Let the bark 

 remain bark; if you force it below the surface, you will make it to go over to 

 root bark, entirely different from the upper bark, which is at least a tedious, if 

 not a dangerous process. Allow something in freshly made holes for the settling 

 or sinking of the tree ; if the roots remain covered the first year by a protection 

 of a slight mound, brush, or stones, you can hardly plant too shallow. 



In making your holes, kill every worm, bug, and, in general, every insect that 



