Asparoffiis should now be uncovered, and, if growint? in rows, the soil sliould l)e forked 

 up hftween tliem. In euttint; it for use, it is well to hear in mind, that it is sui)erlluous to 

 cut below the surface, the white portion not being eatable. Beed may yet be sown for youii^ 

 plantations. See to the clearing of this crop, and give an early check to tlie growth of weed.-.. 



Chaiiioiiiilc, sage, wormwood, tansy, and lavender, may have their roots divided, or in- 

 creased by slips where a stock is required. 



Haudy Fiturr. — Pears grafted on quince require deep, rich soil, to derive full benefit from 

 this method of culture. Many failures have occurred, and much disai)pointment has been 

 occasioned, by those who have ])lanted these without knowing what they were about. Of 

 course, all such failures are attributed to the trees, and the system of grafting them ; few 

 people care about taking blame to themselves, if they can by any means shift the respon- 

 sibility. 



Tear culture on this system is not for those who plant a tree as they do a gate-post, and 

 who look upon the after-treatment of both in the same light — that is, leave them till they 

 rot, and then put in a fresh one. In planting, surround the roots with a peck or so of leaf 

 or wood mould ; this starts them vigorously. Cover the whole of tlie quince, and about an 

 inch of the pear-stem, with soil. The quince roots freely from any part of its surface ; 

 therefore, deep planting in this case is not injurious, and it prevents the depredations of the 

 borer. If the roots appear stumpy, stunted, and destitute of fibres, cut sevei'al upward 

 slits on various parts of their surfaces, to encourage root formation. 



The amount of pruning that trees require at planting, depends upon the degree of mutila- 

 tion and maltreatment the roots have been subjected to. The older the tree, the grc^ater 

 the mutilation the roots are likely to sufler, and, consequently, the more branch pruning 

 will be necessary. For this reason, young trees are better for general planting than older 

 ones ; two years from the bud is a favorite age for the removal of uurseiy trees. At this 

 age, too, they are just in condition for training to any desired form. Young trees that liave 

 been neglected during last summer, with reference to in-uuing, and have shoots three or 

 more feet in length, should have those luxuriant shoots bent down and fixed iu that position. 

 Close pruning such shoots only increases their vigor. 



Care in disbudding where branches are not wanted, and pinching early the extreme points 

 of those shoots that seem to grow too strong, will early attract the attention of those who 

 wish to see a perfect and well furnished tree. 



Grapery. — As the young shoots progress, tie the canes up to the rafters, but keep their 

 points pendant until the lower buds are well into growth. Attend early to disbudding — a 

 very necessary ojieration on close pruned vines ; of course leave the strongest slioot. Syringe 

 over the plants during the early portion of the day, and endeavor to have the house dry 

 towards evening, so long as frosty nights may be expected. If apix-aranccs indicate a sharjj 

 frost, and there is no other means of repelling it, filling the house with smoke will be found 

 a good preventive expedient. Damp hay, or any similar matter, will answer this purpose ; 

 tobacco stems may be used, if there are, as frequently happens, nectarine or peach-trees 

 trained on the back wall, as both the green and black aphis are very liable to attack them 

 when the leaves are developing. Admit air carefully, exclude dry, blustering winds, and 

 keep the bottom ventilators closed to avoid currents. 



Greenhouse. — Watering, — The application, or, rather, the misapplication of water, kills 

 more pot plants than anything else. It is also a subject that will not admit of definite 

 rules, so much depends upon individual circumstances. When a plant is wet, it of course 

 requires no water, yet many water all their plants every day. When a plant is dry, suffi- 

 cient water should be given to reach every root, and wet all the soil ; yet many are content 

 by dribbling a little on the surface. Strong growing plants., and those that have filled th(!ir 

 pots with roots, will require more water than those irnder the opposite extremes. Plants 

 maturing their growth, or coming towards a state of rest, should have a gradually dimi- 

 nished supply, not, however, by curtailing the quantity at each application, but by lengthen- 

 ing the period between them. Merely wetting the surface only deceives the eye, as the 

 lower roots get none. Again, delicate rooting plants, as azaleas, heaths, epacris, leschenaultias, 

 &c., especially if recently repotted, will frequently apjiear dry on the surface, although not 

 in need of water. To ascertain accurately, give the side of the pot a shai-jj rap; if it pro- 

 duces a clear, ringing sound, it is a sure sign that there is not much moisture within. 



Calceolarias and cinnerarias are difficult to keep over summer. The best method is to 

 plant them deep, in a rich, open soil, clear away a few of the lower leaves, and draw the soil 

 well up about the stems ; unless they emit a fresh supply of roots, and get hold of the soil 

 before summer, they will do but poorly. 



