NOTES ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE APRICOT. 



side of the dwelling-house, in a strong, loamy soil, and annually produced for its 

 owner from one to four bushels of handsome fruit. This Apricot ripens at the 

 usual season, is of medium size, aud possesses the remarkable quality of coloring 

 up to a handsome straw color some days before it is soft, with here and there a 

 dash of red on exposed specimens ; stone small, and nearly free, and not perforate ; 

 never cracks or rusts, as do some of the older sorts. Hardiest of all the Apricots 

 that I am acquainted with, the bark of the tree seldom cracks or gums, unless 

 planted in a damp soil, and in such soil should not be planted, unless well under- 

 drained. This variety is supposed to have originated here, as it is quite different 

 in appearance and habits from any of the other sorts that I have fruited (and I 

 fruited quite a number). My largest and most productive trees are of this sort. 

 One tree, 9 years planted, standing within seven feet of a building, has produced 

 heavy crops for the last four years ; there was, in 1853, one bushel taken from it; 

 in 1854, not quite so much ; 1855, one bushel and a quarter. To the nature of 

 the soil, and nothing else, do I attribute the immunity of the Apricot from the 

 ravages of the curculio in this locality ; in fact, I consider his labor rather 

 serviceable than otherwise. 



In conclusion, I will say, brother fruit-growers, if you have tried to grow this 

 truly golden fruit, and have been disappointed, " try again" is the motto. Some 

 writers say : " Don't plant in warm situations, as on the warm side of a building, 

 or other sheltered site facing the hot sun." This advice may be proper in some 

 places, but it certainly is not here. If your soil is warm and sandy where you 

 wish to plant, dig large holes, and put in a cart load of clay, or other heavy soil, 

 in each hole before planting ; then with a wheelbarrow load of good soil, and a 

 few shovelfuls of compost, plant your tree, and, my word for it, you may expect 

 to get some good fruit the third year after planting. The large amount of heavy 

 soil in which the tree stands will not only make a bad harbor for the curculio, but will 

 retard the season of blossoming, which is always desirable. The Apricot should, 

 in all cases, be worked on the plum or almond stock (and be annually shortened in) ; 

 if worked on the peach, it is generally short lived, and liable to all the diseases 

 to which the peach is incident. By all means, plant in sheltered places if possi- 

 ble, for it is well known that a cold north wind is very destructive to this fruit, 

 when it is in full bloom. A tight board fence, 7 or 8 feet high, affords very good 

 shelter for the Apricot and Grape, &c. I made about 30 rods, last fall, in the 

 following manner : A ditch, three feet deep, running east and west, was dug, the 

 laud inclining gently towards the east ; posts, 10 feet in length, were then put in 

 so as not to obstruct water (the ground being damp, but not wet) ; the ditch was 

 then made half full of small stones, and filled up with surface soil ; string pieces 

 were then put on horizontally, and boards firmly and closely nailed on in a verti- 

 cal position. A fence of this sort not only drains the land, but breaks off the 

 north wind, and softens the atmosphere for many a rod on the sun side. Apricot- 

 trees can be planted on the sun side within three feet of the fence ; they should 

 cut back for two or three years, so as to form compact aud low headed tr 



