PRUNING OP PEAR-TREES. 



Jinihant, &c. &c., which cannot be brought xmder any other form. Another 

 ailvantnge is that, by the pyramidal shape you get tlie fruit-spurs closer to tlic 

 main body, with light and air enough to ripen all, and without exposing your 

 fruit to be rocked and swung, stunted and smashed, by the autumnal winds, going 

 the rounds of the compass at every blow ; while the " accidental" loss of a branch 

 is comparatively nothing, and easily remedied. 



Some varieties, it is true, bear only at the end of their branches, as the Made- 

 leine, Catillac, &c. ; but when they grow old enough under the pyramidal form, 

 they bear closer, and I have seen pyramids of Catillacs, Franc-r(!'als, and Jose- 

 ])hi"ues, just as fid I as any orchard tree could be with its open and distended 

 form. 



A great deal has been said about the proper time for pruning. As applied to 

 large orchard trees, the removal of stout limbs can remain sub jvdich, although we 

 think the spring the best time. We only intend to speak about the regular 

 pruning of moderate, or full-sized pyramids, or, of such trees as have been sub- 

 mitted to some previous treatment. Our long experience has couCrraed us in the 

 truth of the old French rule, 



" Taille tot, taille tar.i, 

 Rien ne vaut taille de Mars ;" 



which, translated, sounds as — 



" Prune early or late, 

 No better time than March." 



"We have different reasons for this. Our first and principal is, that some varieties, 

 chiefly in severe winters, will not bear pruning before winter or during cold 

 weather. Secondly, the healing process commences right after the operation, 

 without injury by frost or exposure of wounded limbs. Thirdly, we see the 

 blossom-buds more swollen, and can distinguish those at a glance ; and last, but, 

 by no means least, we retard the blossoming and the starting of the vegetation, 

 at least for some days ; which, in our uncertain climate, is a matter of no small 

 consideration ; for hardy varieties, which can bear the operation before winter 

 (as Lawrence, Sterling, BuQ'am, &c. &c.), with impunity, come out rapidly in the 

 spring. 



If you wish a pear-tree to bear early, to test a new or favorite variety, let the 

 pruning be very moderate. A severe pruning will cause the spurs to go over to 

 ^oood or shoots instead of fruit bearers ; and the blossom will drop, or set with 

 deficient fruit in consequence of the disturbance of the general economy of the 

 sap. But, we again repeat, if you want sound, handsome, and good bearing trees, 

 " have patience," and do not spoil a valuable colt by driving it, before it is fitted 

 to the harness. Please remember that a pear-tree is not a currant bush, nor a 

 wild peach-tree ; which last, by the by, would be all the better also for a sys- 

 tematic pruning. 



In pruning young thrifty trees, take off a good part of the terminal shoot. The 

 sap flows with great power to the top, and that part of the tree is much exposed 

 to be overfed, and in consequence, to droop and bend down for want of propor- 

 tional strength. 



These are, in a brief way, the main rules. Everybody knows that in pruning 

 we must avoid forks, or too many branches starting from one limb, because if 

 that limb should die, an irremediable void is formed, and because it disturbs and 

 destroys the equilibrium of the tree by calling for too much food. Everybody 

 knows that all good pruning must consist in filling vamums, and thinnin " 

 thickly branched parts. That a shoot ought to be cut, clean, just above a 



