1880. 



AND HORTICULTURIST. 



75 



somewhat the curculio that attacks the plum 

 tree, but larger. It feeds on the leaves of the 

 rose plant for probably a month in this stage, 

 and then goes down and deposits its eggs in the 

 soil. These in time develop into maggots, 

 which at once begin to feed on the roots of the 

 rose plant. This is its destructive stage, and a 

 rose plant cannot long retain its vigor while this 

 pest Ls sapping at its vitals. When the insect is 

 in the maggot stage, it is believed there is no 

 remedy. I have tried to kill it with a dozen 

 different things that are usually destructive to 

 insect life, with no effect whatever. The only 

 remedy then, is to catch and kill the perfect in- 

 sect on the plant. Professor Riley has suggested 

 that folded strips of paper be inserted close to 

 the stem of the plant in the soil, as he has dis- 

 covered that the insect deposits its eggs in the 

 rough bark near the surface. This I tried, but 

 so far with no results, as no eggs were found in 

 the traps so set. There is reason to believe that 

 many failures of roses to do well is in conse- 

 quence of this pest at the roots. When this has 

 been ascertained to be the case, there is no 

 remedy but to take them up at once and throw 

 out ever}^ particle of soil wherein they have 

 been grown. It is easier to manage the pest 

 when roses are grown in pots, then, if affected, 

 there is no necessity to sacrifice the plants if 

 taken in time. Some of the most extensive rose 

 growers grow their roses in pots, so as to have 

 full control of the rose bug. Their system is 

 this : After growing the plants in the flowering 

 pots during winter, they are taken from the 

 greenhouses in May or June and stood outside 

 and kept rather dry until August ; the ball is 

 then shook and every particle of soil rinsed or 

 washed/rom the roots. This, of course, carries 

 off every egg and insect also adhering to the 

 roots, and the plants are potted in fresh mould 

 and are then entirely clear of the pest. I have 

 seen many thousands of plants so treated that 

 are now (Xovember) growing luxuriantly and 

 flowering in greatest profusion. 



GLOXINIAS. 



BY C. E. PARNELL, GARDENER TO W. D. F. MANICE, Esq., 

 QUEENS, L. I., NEW YORK. 



As the Gloxinia is one of my favorite flowers, 

 I was very much pleased with the practical 

 article on their cultivation in the December 

 number of the Gardener's Monthly. I also 

 noticed the remarks of Mr. Fyfe on the rust to 

 which the Gloxinia is so subject, as it has caused 



me a great deal of trouble and annoyance, as 

 well as the loss of the best part of my col- 

 lection. But after many experiments I was 

 enabled last season to grow all my Gloxinias 

 perfectly free from rust by adopting the follow- 

 ing method. As soon as I noticed that they 

 were commencing to grow, which was about 

 the 10th of May, I turned them out of their 

 pots and repotted them in a mixture of one-half 

 leaf mould, the other half consisting of loam 

 and charcoal broken fine, in about equal propor- 

 tion, taking care to give good drainage, and 

 also to keep the top of the bulb on a level with 

 the surface of the soil. 1 then take a cold 

 frame and spade up the ground inside the frame. 

 I then plunge all the pots in the frame, taking 

 care that the tops of the pots are on a level 

 with the ground. After the pots are all 

 plunged, I water the ground so as to fasten the 

 soil around the pots, then put on the sash and 

 whitewash the glass so as to retain the moist- 

 ure. In a short time there will be a fine healthy 

 growth, and in the course of two or three 

 weeks, air should be given by raising up the 

 sash at the bottom. On hot days the sash may 

 be raised about four inches, and on cooler days 

 about two inches, and in rainy or wet weather 

 the sash had better be closed. The plants must 

 be watered as often as they require it, and when 

 the flowers commence to expand the plants can 

 be removed to the greenhouse. If the rust 

 should make its appearance, remove them back 

 to the frame at once. As soon as the plants 

 cease flowering, they can be brought back to the 

 frame, and the amount of water given should be 

 gradually decreased. On the approach of cold 

 weather, the plants can be brought into the 

 greenhouse and placed under the stage or any 

 place where the thermometer ranges about 50**. 

 The pots containing the bulbs must be laid on 

 their sides, as if the soil is allowed to get wet 

 the bulb may rot. During the growing season 

 the plants must be looked over occasionally, 

 and shifted as often as neceseary, and on no ac- 

 count must they be allowed to become pot- 

 bound, for if once they become pot-bound, they 

 soon become sickly and the prey of numerous 

 insects. 



To cultivate the Gloxinia successfully it re- 

 quires a warm moist atmosphere, a temperature 

 ranging from 60'' to 75°, a slight protection from 

 the full force of the sun, and in watering give 

 only enough to supply their wants. When the 

 pot is filled with roots, shift into a larger size, 



