34 



TEE GARDENER'S MONTH L Y 



[February, 



European tree trimmers. If for instance, some 

 of the trees were cut like the following English 

 Yew, which we take from Gardening Illustrated^ 

 we might have some praise for the pruner, 

 whatever we might think of the lastefulness of 

 his work. See cut below. 



We are not opposed to all this kind of prun- 

 ing, however, as some garden authors are. No 

 doubt a "naturally" grown tree is very pretty, — 

 perhaps nothing in nature is more so. But a 

 close Irish Yew or Juniper under some circum- 

 stances, is as pretty as a spreading one, and there 

 is no reason why we should not produce by the 

 knife, what we admire when no knife is used to 

 produce a similar result. No one objects to a 

 neatly pruned hedge, — to a pruned arch over a 

 small entrance gate. In many cases pruned 

 plants have a wonderful effect. "We confess a 

 liking for these things sometimes, — but when 

 over done they are 

 repulsive. The 

 best time for all 

 evergreen pruning 

 is after all danger 

 of cold winter 

 winds are gone. 

 We have taken so 

 much room with 

 this important 

 matter of pruning, 

 that we must close 

 by brief hints only 

 on other import- 

 ant spring matters. 

 Still, in regard to 



pruning we may say that many delay pruning 

 shrubbery until after severe weather passes, so 

 as to see what injury may be done, — but with 

 March all should be finished, — taking care not 

 to trim severely «uch shrubs as flower out of last 

 year's wood, as for instance, the Wiegela — while 

 such as flower from the spring growth, as the 

 Althaea, Mock Oi'ange, etc., are benefited by 

 cutting back vigorously. 



Those which flower from young wood, cut in 

 severely to make new growth vigoi'ous. Tea, 

 China, Bourbon and Noisette Roses are of this 

 class. What are called annual flowering roses, 

 as Prairie Queen and so on, require much of last 

 year's wood to make a good show of flowers. 

 Hence, with these, thin out weak wood, and 

 leave all the stronger. 



To make handsome, shapely specimens of 

 shrubs, cut them now into the forms you want, 



A TRIMMED YEW TREE. 



and keep them so by pulling out all shoots that 

 grow stronger than the others during the Sum- 

 mer season. 



Graft trees or shrubs where changed sorts are 

 desirable. Any lady can graft. Cleft grafting 

 is the easiest. Split the stocks, cut the scion like 

 a wedge, insert in the split, so that the bark of 

 the stock and scion meets; tie a little bast bark 

 around it, and cover with Trowbridge's grafting 

 wax, and all is done ; very simple when it is 

 understood, and not hard to understand. 



If flowers have been growing in the ground for 

 many years, new soil does wonders. Rich ma- 

 nure makes plants grow, but they do not always 

 flower well with vigorous growth. If new soil 

 cannot be had, a wheelbarrow of manure to 

 about evei'y fifty squai'e feet will be enough. If 

 the garden earth looks grey or yellow, rotten 

 leaves — quite rotten leaves — will improve it. If 



heavy, add sand. 

 If very sandy, add 

 salt — about half a 

 pint to fifty square 

 feet. If very black 

 or rich from pre- 

 vious year's ma- 

 nurings, use a lit- 

 tle lime, about a 

 pint, slacked, to 

 fifty square feet. 



If the garden be 

 full of hardy per- 

 ennial flowers, do 

 not dig it, but use 

 a fork, and that 

 not deeply. Dig garden ground only when the 

 soil is warm and dry. Do not be in a hurry, or 

 you may get behind. When a clot of earth will 

 crush to powder as you tread on it, it is time to 

 dig — not before. 



If perennial plants have stood three years in 

 one place, separate the stools, replanting one- 

 third, and give the balance to your neighbor who 

 has none. 



Box edgings lay well now. Make the ground 

 firm and level, plant deep, with tops not more 

 than two inches above ground. 



Roll the grass well before the softness of a 

 thaw goes away. It makes all smooth and level. 

 In planting trees remember our repeated ad- 

 vice to use the pruning knife freely. 



The rule for pruning at transplanting is to cut 

 in proportion to apparent injury to roots. If not 

 much the worse for removal, cut but little of the 



