THE CARNATION. 



77 



frame till it has had time to thaw out very 

 gradually. 



The most successful mode of keeping this 

 plant in winter is pursued by a friend of 

 mine, and is as follows : He chooses a com- 

 mon hot-bed frame, and sinks it nearly even 

 with the' surface of the soil, or at least not 

 rifcing more than three inches above it, in a 

 cool, rather shaded, northern exposure. He 

 takes out the soil in the frame, about ten 

 inches deep, makes the ground quite level 

 and hard with a pounder. Then he cements 

 the floor over with cheap common mortar, 

 made of lime and loam mixed with some 

 coarse sand. This he lays on about an inch 

 or two thick, bringing it up snugly to the 

 sides of the frame all round. 



The advantages of this hard mortar floor 

 are great. It keeps the plants quite free 

 from the bad effects of accumulated damp- 

 ness, which gathers in a common frame 

 when the pots are set on the earth. Hundreds 

 of Carnations die off suddenly in winter 

 from this cause, and the grower is unable 

 to account for it. On the mortar floor they 

 are always dry; besides this, it prevents 

 mice from getting in the frame. These 

 little animals are very fond of Carnations, 

 and will, if they find their way into a col- 

 lection in winter, soon devour a great num- 

 ber. 



The frame being ready, the plants are 

 moved into it about the middle of October, 

 or as soon as the nights become frosty. For 

 some days, or in short till severe weather 

 sets in, the lights need only be put on the 

 frame at night. In the mean time water 

 the plants moderately, as often as they ap- 

 pear dry. As soon as winter commences, 

 shut up the frame with the lights. Upon 

 the top of these place two layers of matting, 

 and over all lay a large shutter or cover of 

 rough boards. 



Here thev will remain till the spring 



opens. I think it best never to open the 

 frame during severe freezing weather. On 

 all fine mild dry days, during the winter, 

 you may admit air freely to the plants, but 

 never the sun. Raise the glass, and re- 

 place the shutter for a few hours to keep 

 out the sun's rays. They will need but very 

 little water during the winter, unless the 

 weather is very mild. When, by the pots 

 appearing dry, you observe that they do need 

 it, supply them very sparingly. If they are 

 kept shaded and cool, they will make little 

 or no demand for water during the winter. 



If these directions are followed, you will 

 find your plants in excellent healthy condition 

 at the opening of the spring. When this 

 season comes round, admit air at the begin- 

 ning plentifully, but do not let in the sun all 

 at once, only by degrees, till the plants are 

 able to bear it. 



At the beginning of April, they must all 

 be shifted into larger pots for blooming. 

 The soil that should be used, I have already 

 spoken of. I will only add, that in potting 

 the Carnation, the earth should always he 

 pressed down quite firmly around the plant 

 with the fingers. Experience has proved to 

 me that this is quite an essential point. 



In July you will have the satisfaction of 

 seeing your plants come into full bloom — 

 and a sight of rare and wonderful beauty it 

 is, if the collection is a large one. Before 

 this time, you will have tied up every 

 strong flower stem to a neat small stake, 

 and you should have taken the precaution 

 to pinch off all superabundant, weak or un- 

 necessary buds, leaving only the strongest. 

 The latter will then have all the juices of 

 the plant to support them, and will come out 

 surprisingly rich and perfect. 



IV. ITS PROPAGATION. 



About the middle or last of July, the 

 beauty of the bloom will be over. Now 



