172 



TRANSPLANTING TREES IN SUMMER. 



pared only twenty-four hours, lost tlie earth 

 in part from its roots, and after lingering 

 some time died. The reason of this was, 

 that time was not given for the superabun- 

 dant water to be discharged from the ball, 

 and it of course was not as firmly consoli- 

 dated as it would have been, had it been 

 left six or eight hours longer, before it was 

 taken up. My gardener now became a con- 

 vert to mj' system, and had what he calls 

 a "turban" made to tie round the ball 

 before it is removed. This has been very 

 serviceable, for with the aid of this cloth, 

 we can remove balls so large, that they re- 

 quire three strong men to lift them. This 

 year, 1845, I have removed, during the 

 summer, many fine trees with the fruit on 

 them, with perfect success ; some of them 

 were peaches, trained trees, five and six 

 feet high, and spreading six and eight feet 

 on the trellis. 



The advantage of removing young trees 

 in summer, when they are growing vigorous- 

 ly, over that of removing them in the spring 

 or autumn, is as follows : 



If you remove in the spring or autumn, 

 you must either uncover the roots, or you 

 must remove them with a ball of earth. If 

 you uncover the roots, you put the tree back 

 a year; but you have the advantage of see- 

 ing and cutting out all the bad roots ; if you 

 do not uncover the roots to examine them, 

 you are liable to have your tree fall off and 

 die during the summer, from the defective 

 state of its roots. But if you remove the 

 tree in the summer, at any time from the 

 last of May to September, when it is grow- 

 ing vigorously, you may be sure that the 

 roots are good, and the tree will never cease 

 growing, if the precautions here mentioned 

 are observed in its preparation. 



Hence, I find trees removed this summer, 

 1S45, with the fruit attached to them, have 

 gone on to complete the growth commenced 



before removal, and to increase the size and 

 mature the fruit as if they had not been 

 transplanted ; and these trees will, I have 

 no doubt, bear a full crop of fruit next year, 

 if they are permitted to do so. Whereas, 

 if the trees had been removed in the spring, 

 and the roots stripped or laid bare, they could 

 not have been permitted to bear at all this 

 year, and but little fruit the next, without 

 injury to the trees. Peaches, plums, and 

 pears on quince stocks, bear transplanting 

 in this way in the summer, without stopping 

 their growth, provided they are vigorous 

 thrifty growing trees at the time they are 

 taken up. 



When standard trees are transplanted in 

 the fall or autumn, it is best to support 



Fig. 50. Conical mound to support a transplanted tret. 



them with a cone of earth, about twelve or 

 eighteen inches high, according to the size 

 of the tree. (See fig. 50.) This mode is 

 far preferable to staking, as it supports them 

 in an upright position without chafing the 

 tree, as a stake is apt to do ; besides the 

 earth covers and protects the newly planted 

 roots from the effects of the winter's frost, 

 which will heave them, if the ground be 

 moist, unless they are well mulched or cov- 

 ered with litter. 



Standard trees, when transplanted in the 

 autumn in the ordinary way, will be found 



