DWARF PEAR TREES. 



501 



most, if not all, of its roots will be drawn 

 into this enticing and exciting food, and all 

 the evils of luxuriant or glutton branches, 

 as well as those of heated and decayed 

 roots, arising from stagnant and putrid de- 

 posits of water that has no outlet, must be 

 expected. 



We think that the best mode, both in gar- 

 dens and orchards w^here fruit trees are to 

 be planted, (unless they already lie on slo- 

 •ping ground,) is to plant them on the top of 

 ridges, made at proper distances, and just 

 high enough to carry ofl'the water gradual- 

 ly after it has passed over the roots of the 

 trees ; but I should not allow any depres- 

 sion of the soil under the tree, where the 

 water could lodge for any time. Neither 

 should I allow any manure or extra rich 

 soil to be deposited in the neighborhood of 

 the roots. If your trees become weak, a 

 pure, good, virgin soil applied in the fall or 

 spring by partially uncovering their roots, 

 is the best remedy you can give them. 

 The soil of the nursery should not be as 

 rich as that of your garden, into which your 

 trees, when large enough, are to be trans- 

 planted ; because the change from very 

 rich to poor soil has a tendency to check 

 their growth, and is an essential injury to 

 them. 



When young trees are planted out into 

 the nursery, or elsewhere, the tap roots, if 

 they have any, should be cut out close to 

 the stem ; the lateral roots should be spread 

 horizontalh'', (a little depressed,) so as not 

 to interfere by crossing each other ; and the 

 upper roots should be covered about two or 

 three inches deep over the upper part of 

 them, at their insertion. 



In preparing the places where the trees 

 are to be planted out permanently, it is best 

 to throw the earth out into one pile, several 

 days before they are planted ; this will sep- 



arate the lumps and stones from the fine 

 earth, which you will want to fill up among 

 the roots ; every part of which should be 

 brought into contact and entirely covered 

 with the earth, as any parts of the roots left 

 exposed to the air are apt to mould and 

 decay. 



As your trees develop their branches you 

 will see whether they are best suited to be 

 pruned to make Espalie7-s or Standards, and 

 will treat them accordingly. 



In doing this, if you wish for trees to fill 

 out your trellises, and any of the trees des- 

 tined for this purpose should want a branch 

 or two to make them uniform, they can be 

 easily supplied by inarching from the same 

 tree, a limb already perfect, into the side of 

 the trees where the deficiency exists, and, 

 when it has taken hold securely, cut it off 

 close to the grafted part, and you will fill up 

 all vacancies, although you will shorten and 

 disfigure, in some measure, the branch or 

 branches applied to this object. But the 

 branches so cut and disfigured, will soon be 

 restored to form and order by care of the 

 gardener. This is a much surer and more 

 advantageous mode of obtaining your object 

 than that of inserting buds or gi-afts in the 

 naked places, because the branch thus in- 

 serted may be ^fruit-hearing branch in lieu 

 of a wood bud or scion that will not bear 

 fruit for several years. 



When the Statulard trees have attained 

 in the nursery sufficient growth to be re- 

 moved into the garden, those that have their 

 stems well furnished all around with 

 branches from bottom to top, that is to say, 

 from a foot or nine inches from the ground 

 to within the same distance of the top, may- 

 be treated and pruned as pyramids or conical 

 standards. This form, when properly prun- 

 ed, will give the greatest quantity and best 

 quality of fruit. 



