TRANSPLANTING LARGE TREES. 



bushels of ashes, were well mixed with about one half of the good soil, and about one foot 

 of depth of this compost was spread over the bottom of the hole, which was then ready to 

 receive the roots of the tree. 



2. The tree selected was an elm, standing in a damp wood, but so that the head was 

 well branched. At the distance of five feet from the body, (which measured forty-two 

 inches in circumference at one foot from the ground,) a trench was opened two feet wide; 

 the long roots were not cut, but the trench was sunk so that the tree could be gradually 

 undermined, and with a pick the soil was dug away from among the roots so that the 

 diameter of the ball of earth was about eight feet; while the digging was continued under 

 tlie roots as far as it was possible, the fibrous roots being tied up so as to be but little 

 broken. This done, the long surface roots were followed out, say ten or twelve feet from 

 the tree, cut off, turned up, and tied to the stem. A block and tackle, fastened in the 

 top of this tree, and to the root of one at some distance, was used to pull the tree over to 

 an angle of 45*, and a stone sled was placed so that one half of the ball would rest on it 

 — the tree was then turned into it, and another sled placed under the ball. The side of 

 the trench was then cut away so that the sleds would run out of the hole; ten yoke of oxen 

 were chained to the sleds, and a chain was carried from around the stem to the draft 

 chain, so that the tree might not slip from the sleds. The tree was then quietly slid from its 

 old place and into its new one — the side of the new hole being cut down so that the oxen 

 could travel through the liole and leave the tree, sleds and all, in it. The tree was then 

 turned down first on one side, then on another; and both sleds being removed, it was 

 ready to have its roots placed and covered. This was carefully done by turning the tree 

 from the perpendicular, and filling in with the hand and a wooden rammer, every cavity 

 in the roots, with the compost earth — the bruised and mangled roots being first cut away 

 with a knife or axe. The tree was planted one foot deeper than it stood in the woods. 

 The long roots were stretched and pegged down to act as anchors, and the hole being then 

 filled with the common earth — so far the roots were disposed of. 



Three strong props were then securely placed so that they could not chafe the bark, or 

 allow the tree to be disturbed by winter or summer winds — and then the autumn work 

 was done. 



3. In the spring, about first May, the top Avas lopped, thinned from one-third to one- 

 half, just as the buds were breaking vigorousl3^ The ground over the surface of the hole 

 Avas mulched, (covered Avith manure four inches deep;) the props were examined, the tree 

 righted, and then it took its chance. Once during the dry weather of the summer, some 

 twenty-five buckets of water Avere poured over the roots. 



The cost of the tree in its place Avas tliirtj^ dollars, it having been moved a quarter of a 

 mile — and it is worth the cost. It, with others, now stands on Mr. Saml. E. Foster's 

 place, at New-Haven, where it piomises well. 



5. Better roots can be had by this process than by cutting a ball and freezing it — be- 

 cause the roots need not be cut so short. 



6. The tree should be planted deeper than in the wood, for many reasons. 



7. The props are very important for tAvo years at least, as the swaying of the tree in 

 the Avind would otherwise break the young new roots. 



8. One-half the top may be cut away safely. Mr. Jas. Fellows, who has planted 

 large trees AA'ith success, in this neighborhood, thinks that none should be cut away; he 

 and I don't agree. 



9. Mulching is one of the very best practices — and so is watering the leaves in dry 

 weather, Avith a barrel of Avater and a hand engine. 



