HINTS ON TKANbl'LANTlNG TKEK8. 



and til? consoqiKMit Imlviiifj of tlie surface, which would render the apjilicftlion of water 

 nn injury ratlior than a benefit. Trees are very (.iflcn j>lanted too dvejt. Thf forma- 

 tion of now roots requires heat, air, and moisture ; and roots that are l)uriiMl far 

 beneath the surface arc in a great measure exchided from the genial influence of heat 

 and air, and the ends, instead of emitting new fibres, decay, and of course the tree 

 lingers and dies. Vast quantities of trees are lost on this account, and we can not too 

 strongly urge planters to guard against it. If wc examine healthy, vigorous trees, we 

 find that the most active, important roots, are not far from the surface ; and we know 

 that it is a very good plan to bury deeply any portion of a tree that wc desire to keep 

 in a dormant state. 



AVhen the tree is planted, it should immediately be mulched ; that is, a covering 

 three or four inches deep of half decayed manure or litter should be spread over the 

 ground in a circle around the tree, from the trunk to the extremities of the roots, and 

 some distance beyond. This mulching prevents evaporation from the soil, and, what 

 is very important, aids in preserving a uniform temperature about the roots ; besides, 

 when rains come, they dissolve this mulching, and wash down its fertilizing parts to 

 the roots. This is a much safer way of applying manure to newly planted trees than 

 placing it in immediate contact with the roots. 



In cases where trees are much exposed, or have sufficient top to catch the wind, 

 supports of some kind are necessary until the roots have taken hold of the ground. 

 In some cases a single stake will be sufficient, but it must be sunk so as not to injure 

 the roots ; and there should be a piece of cloth, matting, or some soft substance, 

 placed between the tree and stake, or tied loosely around the tree, to prevent it fi'om 

 being chafed. 



We have said nothing about pruning the tree. We said, in last month's article on 

 this subject, that shortening the branches at the time of transplanting was a necessity 

 only because the roots are generally mutilated and injured in taking ui>. This is sub- 

 stantially true. If we could take a young tree up with all its roots entire and unin- 

 jured in any way, and replant it before they could sutler from exposure, there would 

 be no need of lopping oft' branches. But this we may as well say is impossible — the 

 roots must and will be cut and bruised and broken and dried ; and the more they 

 sufi'er, the less able they will be to fulfil their functions ; and therefore, in the case of 

 deciduous trees, we must either shorten and thin the branches, or see our trees die. 

 All bruised and broken roots should be pruned off" clean and smoothly up to the 

 sound wood, else they will decay, and retard the formation of new roots, if they do 

 not kill the tree. The freshly cut surface of a sound root, placed in proper soil, like a 

 cuttin<T, under favorable circumstances, soon emits new fibres. 



In reducing the top, regard should be had to the form of the tree ; in most cases it 

 is better to thin the branches than to shorten all closely. It should always be remem- 

 bered that leaves aid in the formation of roots. In fjict, unless the leaves continue to 

 11 prepare new matter, the roots will not grow, no more than the leaves will continue to 

 perform their functions without the aid of the roots. We know that leaves expand 

 before the roots have become active, and that new roots are formed before any leaves 



