KITCHEN GARDENING. 



and sometimes Globe Artichokes. Herbs of all kinds are essential to a well-kept 

 garden, and are usually disposed in odd corners, narrow borders, and frequently as 

 edgings, or di\'ision lines. The other articles are best kept by themselves in adjoining 

 beds, all thriving in pretty much the same soil. The Asparagus perhaps relishes a 

 more sandy soil than the others. Rhubarb and Sea Kalo should adjoin, for the con- 

 venience of early forcing. Small fruits are also considered as kitchen garden crops, 

 and come under the permanent class. Here we have Currants, Gooseberries, Straw- 

 berries, and Raspberries. These may be in beds by themselves, in near connection 

 with the others. Currants and Gooseberries are frequently employed to adorn the 

 sides of walks, being placed at about nine feet distance from each other. Of the vege- 

 tables above mentioned, the Rhubarb alone afibrds scope for much variety ; I prefer 

 the Victoria. 



The arrangement of the more temporary crops to the best advantage, requires more 

 skill ; and, indeed, almost every gardener has some pecuHar ideas of his own. As a 

 general rule, green crops — such as Cabbage, Spinage, &c. — should be planned to 

 follow root crops — as Turnips, Potatoes, &c. ; though this can not alwa3's be done, 

 as some families use more of one kind than others would do, and these again more of 

 the same in one season than in others. I will give a short sketch of my own method ; 

 others can vary it to suit circumstances. My most extensive crops are Bush Beans, 

 Celery, Corn, Onions, Peas, Potatoes, Salsify, Spinage, Turnips, Tomatoes, and Lima 

 Beans. My other crops are, therefore, subservient to these. I give these the " first 

 choice" of ground ; the others come in where they can. The ground to be occupied 

 with Corn, French Beans, Tomatoes, Lima Beans, Melons, Cucumbers, Squash, Okra, 

 and Egg Plants, not being required before the middle of May, any amount of Spinage, 

 or Radishes and Lettuce, may be raised previously. Then those crops taking the 

 greatest quantity of fresh manure are associated, as the root crops will have to follow 

 them next season without manure. In this class we have the Pea, Potato, Tomato, 

 Corn, Cabbage, Squash, and Lima Bean. I do not specially provide for Celery, as it 

 follows my first crop of Peas ; nor for Turnips or Endive, which follow early Potatoes. 

 The early sown crops, for which I manure the previous season, are next located, as 

 the Onion, Parsnip, Salsify, Beet, and Carrot. Besides these I usually grow a few 

 Egg Plants, and a small quantity of Parsley, which usually take " what ground is 

 left." Now, besides all this, I have to save a piece of ground for my fall crops — 

 Cabbage, Cape Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, and Savoys. 



We will next talk over the best times and kinds to sow or plant. I couple with the 

 times of sowing the kinds I prefer; it will condense the chapter. Other kinds may 

 do better in some localities. Earhj Walnut-leaved Potatoes require our earliest atten- 

 tion, as soon as the frost is out of the ground, followed closely by Prince Albert Pea, 

 Larrje Yellow Onion, Curled Parsley, Salsify, Parsnips, Early Horn Carrot, Short 

 top Radish, Butter Lettuce, Bound-leaved Spinage, Early York Cabbage (sown pre- 

 vious September), and Turnip Beets. April having arrived, we are ready for Mercer 

 Potatoes, Long Salmon Radish, more Spinage, Long Red Beet, Long Orange Carrot, 

 and Drumhead Lettuce. May — Stowell Corn, Lima Beans, Okra, Bush Squash, To- 



