FOREIGN NOTICES. 



tlio It'inpornture so ns to Becure strong closc-jointcd shoots. If all ^oes on •well, a second shift 

 will \>p r(><niiroil towards the middle or end of Mny, and this should not be deferred nnfil the 

 roots cot mat fed, or the plant sustains any eheek for want of pot room. There will bo no 

 dangor in giving a large shift now, but bogiimers will be fafcr to give only a moderate one, for 

 there is some danger of erring in watering a jdant, when it is surrounded by a large bod}' of 

 loose soil, and therefore it is better to give two moderate shifts. Attend to keeping the shoots 

 nieely tied out, in order to admit light and air to the foliage, and to secure a comjiact sturdy 

 habit of growth. 



During summer, the jdnnt, if in vigorous health, may bo removed to a cold jiit or frame, which 

 can be kept close and moist. But the very best position for securing rapid, strong growth, would 

 be a pit where a bottom-heat of 80o or S5° could be maintained, and ■where the plant coidd be 

 kojit near the glass, keeping the atmosphere rather cool, and affording it a slight shade for a few 

 hours on the forenoons of verj* bright days. Here it would grow ver}' rai>idl3', and a frame 

 and a little fermenting material proi)erly put together might be casilj' made to afford a gentle 

 bottomdieat for two or three months, and would be useful for manj' plants besides this. Attend 

 during the growing season to keeping the shoots nicelj- tied out, stopi)ing them as maybe neces- 

 sary, and also to shifting as may be required. Stopping, however, should not be practiced later 

 in the season than will ailow of getting the last growth well ripened before winter ; and if the 

 shoots are kept properly tied out, and the plant well managed otherwise, very little stopping 

 will be necessary to secure compact bushy specimens. When damp cloud}' ■weather occurs in 

 autumn, the plant should be removed to a rather dry atmosphere, where the temperature may 

 average about 55'^, placing it near the glass, and it should be rather sparingly supplied with 

 water for a few ■weeks, in order to get the wood well ripened, which will greatly conduce to a 

 fine di-play of bloom. By removing the plant to a warmer situation, and giving a liberal sup- 

 ply of water at the root, it will soon develop its beauty, and may be placed in the conservatory 

 while in flower. Care must be observed, however, not to place it in the way of cold draughts, 

 and a damp stagnant atmosphere must be guarded against, as this would soon destroy the blos- 

 som, and greatly impair the beauty of the plant. 



If afforded a close dry situation, the flowers will remain some two months in perfection, and 

 will present a striking and agreeable contrast with those of most winter-blooming plants. After 

 the flowering, the plant may be cut back rather closely, and removed to a cool dry situation for 

 a few weeks, keeping it sparingly supplied with water until it shows indications of growth ; 

 ■when it should be repotted, slightly reducing the old ball, and clearing away a portion of the 

 old exhausted soil. The same treatment as recommended above may be repeated, and ■will pro- 

 duce an inunense specimen in course of the second season. Cuttings selected of firm bits of the 

 young wood, and treated in the ordinary ■way, will root very freely in bottom heat. But tlie 

 plant will bear cutting back and disrooting to any extent; so that ■when once a stock is obtain- 

 ed, there ■will be little necessity for propagating it. — Alpha, in Gard. Chronicle. 



The Curysakthemum. — In the following remarks respecting Chrysanthemums I shall chiefly 

 confine myself to the mode of cultivating them in pots. As soon as the plants have done flow- 

 ering, I cut them down, and place them in any convenient corner on the south side of a ■wall, 

 where they are in some measure sheltered from frost and north-easterly ■winds. They remain 

 in this situation undisturbed, except by watering them now and then, until the present time, 

 ■when they are removed to a more open place, preparatory to their being wanted for the 

 jiurpose of propagation. Chrysanthemums may be increased by cuttings, layers, and offsetts; I 

 have often grown them from the latter: but I have found the foliage so apt to go off them, and 

 leave the plants naked at the bottom, that I greatly prefer cutting?, which, with good treatment, 

 will retain their foliage green and healthy almost to the rims of the pots. The best time for put- 

 ting in cuttings is the latter end of April, or the beginning of May. I use the points of the best 

 shoots of the current year's wood, not more than '2 or 3 inches in length, cutting them close to a 

 and removing tiie bottom leaves. When potted, I transfer them to a close frame; anc 

 venient, I assist their strikin.,' by means of a gentle bottomdieat, but this is not absolutely 



