A WORD OR TWO ON LAWNS. 



theory. Some years ago I came to the conclusion, that practically, we need only two soils 

 loam and peat; the former I use free from any mixture whatever, for all the general as- 

 sortment of plants, excepting such as camellias, to which I add half the latter, and to 

 hair-rooted plants, (heaths, &c.) I use the latter. To the cactus tribe, I use, with the 

 former, a little lime-rubbish or sand. I never use manure under any circumstances, in the 

 compost. The soil I obtain from where I can get it most convenient and suitable, although 

 I decidedly prefer and recommend soil to be collected with all the rough herbage, bones, 

 &c., and to be piled up to lie undisturbed at least two years. I find sods from an old pas- 

 ture give the best loam, and Avhen Avell decomposed they are rich in vegetable matter. 

 Next comes draining, a subject which occupies more room in horticultural pages, and 

 has been so long and universally practiced, that it is the height of boldness to assail its 

 value. But let me invite the gardener at the south to stop and look into it, and ask if 

 such is really necessary, and for what reason. " Why certainly, it is," he will reply; 

 " every article you read, and every gardener you meet, declares it needful, to prevent the 

 plants being flowed with superfluous water." My answer is, that if a gardener does not 

 know such a small portion of soil, of elevated, movable soil, as is contained in a flower- 

 pot, without a drain, or how and when to water a plant, without surcharging and satu- 

 rating it, it will be, by all means, advisable for him to employ a drain; but for a man who 

 really is competent in the plant department, I contend a drain of some two or three inch- 

 es of broken pieces in the bottom of the pot, is, in a dry climate, worse than useless. The 

 pots are ready and clean, inside and out, and a heap of soil is collected free from any for- 

 eign mixture. This I use in as rough a state, (without sifting,) as the size of the pot may 

 allow. I make the soil compact in potting, by beating the bottom of the pot on the pot- 

 ing bench. Never by pressing with stick and fingers. The bad effects of the latter are 

 unseen and unknown to the inexperienced, but bad effects they often are. After potting, 

 place the plants in the situation you have for each species. If such situation be at all adapt- 

 ed, they will soon show a rich appearance of sound, healthy growth, though they are al- 

 ways to be found in different stages; some more delicate, and not fit to feed on anything 

 but the pure soil, others growing quite robust, and therefore ready to use something 

 stronger. In the latter case, I commence manure watering, by the use of guano, a strong 

 solution of which I keep mixed up in a tub, and as I pass with the water pots, I add half 

 a pint or half a gallon, or in other words, make it strong enough to suit the condition of 

 the plants, and so on continue all the growing season, with additional pot room, and more 

 and stronger liquid feeding. This, however, must be gradually withdraw^n as the hot sea- 

 son approaches. When the growth ceases, the plants can no longer digest liquid manure, 

 and suffer by it. James Stewart. 



Memphis, Tennessee. 



A WORD OR TWO MORE ON LAWNS. 



BY A. B. ALLEN, NEW- YORK 



Dear Sir — I agree with you fully in your preference of blue grass and white clover for 

 a lawn; they undoubtedly make the finest and softest turf of any of the grasses grown 

 in the United States. But allow me to add to your excellent observations on the prepa 

 the ground before sowing, that blue grass and white clover delight in a calca 

 If lime then does not already exist in the soil, it should be added in doses of at 



