'^J^ 



THE PARK AT BIRKENHEAD. 



English flour is sold in sacks, American in barrels. The baker asked us if American flour 

 was kiln dried, and thought it must be greatly injured, if it was not, on that account. 

 When we left, he obligingly directed us to several objects of interest in the vicinity, and 

 showed us through the market. The building is very large, convenient, and fine. The 

 roof, which is mostly of glass, is high and airy, and is supported by two rows of slender 

 iron columns, giving to the interior the appearance of three light and elegant arcades. The 

 contrivances to effect ventilation and cleanliness, arc very complete. It was built by the 

 town, upon land given to it for the purpose, and cost ^175,000. 



The baker had begged of us not to leave Birkenhead without seeing their new Park, and 

 at his suggestion we left our knapsacks with him, and proceeded to it. As we approached 

 the entrance, we were met by women and girls, who, holding out a cup of milk, asked 

 us — "Will you take a cup of milk, sirs! Good, cool, sweet, cow's milk, gentlemen, or 

 right warm from the ass." And at the gate were a herd of donkies, some with cans of 

 milk strapped to them, others saddled and bridled, to be let for ladies and children to 

 ride. 



The gateway, which is about a mile and a half from the ferry, and quite back of the 

 town, is a great massive block of handsome Ionic architecture, standing alone, and unsup- 

 ported by anything else in the vicinity, and looking, as I think, heavy and awkward. 

 There is a sort of grandeur about it that the English are fond of, but which, when it is 

 entirely separate from all other architectural constructions, always strikes me unpleasant- 

 ly. It seems intended as an impressive preface to a great display of art within. But 

 here, as well as at Eaton Park, and other places I have since seen, it is not followed up 

 with great things — the grounds immediately within the grand entrance being very simple, 

 and apparently rather overlooked by the gardener. There is a large archway for carria- 

 ges, and two smaller ones for those on foot; on either side, and over these, are rooms, 

 which probably serve as inconvenient lodges for the laborers. No porter appears, and the 

 gates are freely open to the public. 



Walking a short distance up an avenue, we passed through another light iron gate into 

 a thick, luxuriant, and diversified garden. Five minutes of admiration, and a few more 

 spent in studying the manner in which art had been employed to obtain from nature so 

 much beauty, and I was ready to admit that in democratic America, there was nothing to 

 be thought of as comparable with this People's Garden. Indeed, I was satisfied that gar- 

 dening had here reached a perfection that I had never before dreamed of. I cannot at- 

 tempt to describe the effect of so much taste and skill as had evidently been employed; I 

 will only tell you, that we passed through winding paths, over acres and acres, with a 

 constant varying surface, where on all sides were growing every variety of shrubs and 

 flowers, with more than natural grace, all set in borders of greenest, closest turf, and all 

 kept with most consummate neatness. At a distance of a quarter of a mile from the gate, 

 we came to an open field of clean, bright, green-sward, closely mown, on which a large 

 tent was pitched, and a party of boys in one part, and a party of gentlemen in another, 

 were playing cricket. Beyond this was a large meadow with rich groups of trees, under 

 which a flock of sheep were reposing, and girls and women with children, Avere playing. 

 While watching the cricketers, we were threatened with a shower, and hastened back to 

 look for shelter, which we found in a pagoda, on an island approached by a Chinese bridge. 

 It was soon filled, as were the other ornamental buildings, by a crowd of those who, 

 like ourselves, had been overtaken in the grounds by the rain; and I was glad to observe 

 that the privileges of the garden were enjoyed about equally by all classes. There were 

 some who even were attended by servants, and sent at once for their carriages, but a lar"-e 



