they will make fine plants for next year. By again levelling the surface of the beds, and 

 making the cuttings to two eyes — always preserving one leaf, Tea-scented China, Noisette 

 and Boursault Roses, &c., will root freely in it without any further preparation; but if a 

 considerable quantity of the first named sorts are required, either the old beds should be 

 taken down, and a little fresh fermented dung added, or a new one should be made, using 

 the same soit of materials as are recommended above. The young wood should be taken 

 before the blooms are expanded, and the cuttings prepared similar to what I have already 

 described. The young shoots of what is called the second growth, may also be used for 

 cuttings; they should be taken when two full-formed leaves are made, smoothed at the 

 base, and cut down to the first leaf, then planted in a bed of the same construction as 

 above. When they are rooted, they may be hardened ofi" and allowed to remain in 

 the bed until spring. Plenty of air in favorable weather should be admitted. In this 

 way they will occupy less room than when placed in pots, and they will stand the winter 

 better. Cuttings of Roses, like those of many other hard-wooded plants, are more cer- 

 tain of rooting when they are made short, especially if a healthy leaf is attached to them 

 and kept there until they are rooted. This, however, can never be accomplished if the soil 

 in which they are placed is subjected to the alternate action of wet and drouth; but by 

 placing wet leaf-mould between the dung and sand, an uninterrupted supply of moisture 

 is obtained, and no water is required from the time the cuttings are put in till they are 

 rooted in the pots. So suitable is this treatment, that when the bud at the axil of the leaf 

 has been damaged, or otherwise abortive, those at the root are excited, and suckers are 

 produced. All kinds of Roses will root freely under this treatment. 



R. P. Drummond. 



lUnina. 



The Fruit Garden; by P. Barry, of the Mount-Hope Nurseries, Rochester, N. Y. 



One vol. 8vo., 398 pages. (Charles Scribner, New -York.) 



Since the issue of the first edition of our work on Fruit Trees, in 1845, twelve editions 

 of that work have been published and disseminated in every part of this country, and in 

 some parts of Europe — and the sale continues unabated to this day. Since that time 

 various smaller works have been issued from the press, and have also met with an exten- 

 sive sale. The present volume, by Mr. Barry, the well-known Rochester nurseryman, 

 has the last and freshest contributions to the subject, and is, we think, the best of the 

 smaller works. It does not profess to be a comprehensive work on Pomology, to which 

 the reader is to look for complete descriptions of Fruits, since it only offers brief abridged 

 descriptions of select varieties. It takes, however, a different and distinct ground from 

 the other works, namely, to teach " the art of planting fifty trees on an acre of ground, 

 and bringing them into a fruitful state in four or five years." In other words, it is writ- 

 ten to be the hand-book of amateurs who wish to cultivate with care and skill, a few fruit 

 trees, in a fruit garden, rather than orchard cultivators, whose operations are pursued on 

 a wider scale, and with less labor bestowed on the detail of their operations. 



The book is written in a clear, straight-forward, common-sense style, and bears the 

 marks everywhere, of the practical cultivator who understands his subject. Of course, a 

 arge part of it is occupied with brief accounts of the modes of propagation, budding, 

 g, layering, &c., in which, of course, we find little or nothing that is new to those 



No. vii. 3^ 



