strong grower as a Tea-scented Rose. Being more hardy than the Eliza Sauvage, wliere 

 that variety is considered tender, or the clump large, this should be used. A very unique 

 and beautiful Rose. 



NOISETTE ROSES. 



27. j^imee Vihert. — Pure white, blooming in immense clusters, very showy. There be- 

 ing a scarcity of good white Autumnal Roses, this will be found useful to group in con- 

 trast with the strong growing Bourbons and Perpetuals, in large clumps; using Clara 

 Sylvain, with more dwarf varieties, in smaller beds. 



28. Narcissi. — Pale lemon; a beautiful flower, blooming in abundance. This is a Tea- 

 scented Noisette of moderate growth, and rather tender, requiring slight protection. Will 

 form a beautiful small clump. A very first rate Rose. 



29. Nc Plus Ultra. — Cream}^ white, fragrant, dwarf habit, blooming in large clustc'-s. 

 Like Narcisse, a Tea-scented Noisette, but more hardy than that variety. Will contrast 

 admirably with any of the dwarf dark varieties, such as Grand Capitaine. A very desi- 

 rable and beautiful Rose. 



30. Ophirie. — Bright gold and salmon, a strong grower, blooming in rich abundance 

 from the early summer until the approach of frost; even the wet and damp of autumn ap- 

 pear only to give a deeper tint to its lovely flowers. Indispensable, from its color for a 

 large clump where this color is wanting. The other yellows, which are free bloomers, are 

 of too delicate growth, and only adapted for small beds. Pegged over a large clump, 

 which it should be, what an unique mass it forms in the flower garden! Fragrant and 

 very distinct. 



This list will be found ample from which to select. The varieties named are all free 

 bloomers, and of first-rate excellence, flowering until arrested by the approach of frost. 

 If grown in masses in the flower-garden, planting but one variety in a bed, and well con- 

 trasting the colors, they will be found far more pleasing, as well as more beautiful and fra- 

 grant, than the majority of plants at present so employed. 



I will just add one or two hints on their cultivation in the flower garden — they are not 

 intended as more than hints. If the natural soil is of a tenacious loam, it will be suffi- 

 cient to well enrich it with any strong manure, such as night-soil, slaughter-house dung, 

 or any similar strong manure. On the contrary, should the natural soil be very sandy or 

 poor, I should recommend a portion to be taken out, and the bed filled with rich, stiff, 

 fibrous loam, or any such soil that may be at command; well manuring, as in the other 

 case, and thoroughly working up the mass to a couple of feet in depth, mixing the ingre- 

 dients together. The natural soil I take for granted, is drained; stagnant water about 

 their roots is as injurious to Roses as to any other plants. The distance which they should 

 be planted apart is variable, and must depend on whether the variety is a weak or a strong 

 grower, or Avhether intended to be pegged over the bed, or grown as a bush. In the lat- 

 ter case they will require a greater distance than in the former. In a general way, I should 

 say, the strong sorts, if to be pegged down, should be two feet apart each way; and if 

 grown as dwarf bushes, from two feet and a half to three feet; dwarf, or moderate grow- 

 ing varieties, a foot and a half if pegged down, or from two to two and a half feet if grown 

 as bushes. In some gardens the pegging down system is indispensable, whilst in others 

 this is immaterial; as amateurs wish to see the beauty of their Roses growing individu- 

 ally as dwarf bushes. 



Roses, of the classes I have selected, require, in a general way, but little pruning. The 

 delicate growers require to have the head regulated in winter, and any dead wood cut out. 

 The strong growers, at the same season, should have the gross and weak shoots taken out. 



