EUROPEAN STRAAVBERRIES. 



turan. (In this climate many delicate varieties will require protection in winter.) The 

 following summer will bring an abundant crop. While progressing in growth in spring, 

 keep clean from weeds, and should the weather prove dry, when in bloom and swelling 

 the fruit, water copiously — this should not be scantily, but when done well soak the 

 ground — a fewgoodsoakingsof liquid manure at this season is of immense value; all this 

 should, however, be withheld as soon as the fruit approaches maturity, as a deterioration 

 in its flavor would be the consequence if persisted in. When the crop is over, if large size 

 and first quality is wanting for the next season, divest the plants of all runners as they 

 appear; but if quantity, not size, is desirable, let all runners occupy the ground between 

 the rows; keep clear of weeds through the summer, and in the autumn give a rich top- 

 dressing of good dung; through winter and following spring, let the routine be as in the 

 the first season; when the fruit now approaches maturity, a magnificent crop will repay 

 the assiduous cultivator. When the second crop is over, the best growers destroy the lot, 

 having a fresh one coming on to take its place. They will, however, bear a third season 

 pretty well, after which they should invariably be destroyed. Strawberries will succeed 

 in different soils and under other circumstances, but if the directions I have given are lite- 

 rally followed, success is certain. 



In the present day, this fruit is forced to a very great extent, and with what success will 

 be better imagined, when I say I have seen fruit of Keen's Seedling, British Queen and 

 others, as large, if not larger, as high colored and rich flavored, out of the forcing house, 

 as ever I have seen grown in the open air, under the most favorable circumstances. Pro- 

 ceed in this way ; in June or sooner, if the runners are strong enough, take your pots (about 

 three inches in diameter,) to the strawberry bed, with some rich light mold; into those 

 lay your strongest runners, one in a pot, see that they have round, bold, well formed 

 crowns — as they bloom better than the long pointed ones; as soon as they have rooted 

 firmly in the pots cut them off, and shift into pots eight or nine inches in diameter, in good 

 turfy loam, mixed with about one-third rotten dung; in the bottoms of the pots put a 

 handful of soot; when potted let them be stood in an open airy situation, but not plunged, 

 as they fill their pots with roots much better when the air circulates about the pots; (in 

 this climate, under the intense heat of a burning sun, they had better be placed in a shady 

 situation, but not under the drip of trees.) Water occasionally with liquid manure, to 

 get them strong and well rooted, as on this will after success depend. As September and 

 October approach, gradually withhold the water, and let them sink into a dormant state. 

 About the middle of the latter month the plants should be stowed away in the following 

 manner. Mark out a piece of ground about thirty inches broad, and of any given length; 

 then lay a row of pots down each side, the plants outwards and the bottoms of the pots 

 towards the center; the space between the pots should be filled with old tan, sand or any 

 similar material, raising it a little above the level of the pots; on this place another row, 

 keeping the rims of these within the rims of the bottom rows; fill with old tan, as in the 

 first case; proceed in this way until there are five or six rows of pots on each side, when 

 it presents the appearance of a ridge; the top is thatched or covered with litter, to throw 

 off rain and keep the roots and plants dry and healthy. In frosty weather dry litter 

 should be thrown over the plants to prevent them becoming frozen, (still more necessary 

 here.) They are also more easy of access, and can be removed into the forcing-house at 

 any time. Many large growers introduce their first batch of plants into the forcing-house 

 the middle of November, which is followed by others every fortnight up to the end of 

 April. But for more moderate growers the beginning of January will be soon enou 

 commence; on their first introduction keep them cool, near the glass, plenty of air, 



