:a^_^^r 



WHEN TO PKUNE. 



WHEN TO PRUNE. 



A correspondent lias furnislied us with the following text : " At what times in the year 

 should the different kinds of pruning be performed, in the cold latitudes of the north 

 and in the milder climates of the south ?" 



We hold that pruning in general, in our northern climates, is safest after the severe 

 frosts of winter are over, immediately before the swelling of the buds. YvTien per- 

 formed early in the winter, or in the autumn, as is practised properly in mild climates, 

 the ends of the cut shoots dry up, shrivel and die : losing the buds intended to make 

 leading shoots, and leaving dead points that require much labor to prune off after- 

 wards ; or if large branches are cut off", leaving a broad, fresh surface, the wood and 

 bark dry up and require a long time to heal. We perform most of our pruning in 

 the month of March, although a great deal of the less exact nursery pruning is done 

 in February. Southward, as the winter is mild and spring early, we should prefer 

 pruning very early in the winter or immediately after the fall of the leaf, because 

 activity in the functions of the tree commences early, or scarcely ceases, as we must 

 believe it does during our intensely cold weather, and by pruning early we economize 

 the sap and strength of the tree. 



" Pruning in the season when the leaves are onP The only pruning we hold to be 

 sound, safe, and commendable, at this season, is that of the Jinger and thumb, in other 

 words pinching. It is quite inconsistent with good management to rear a crop of 

 glioots and then cut them away. This can only be avoided by nipping superfluous 

 and misplaced shoots at two or three inches of growth, before they attain to woodi- 

 ness. This economises the force of the tree and turns it into a channel where it will 

 promote, instead of frustrating, the ends we are aiming at. For instance, if we plant a 

 young ti'ee, and have pruned it with a view to a certain form, and contrary to our 

 expectations a shoot breaks out at an unexpected point, and assumes a vigorous habit 

 and robs all the other parts, it would evidently be unwise to tolerate this intruder 

 until it arrives at full growth and then cut it away. Too many trees are thus man- 

 aged, by the neglect of summer pruning or pinching. We admit, however, that there 

 are cases in which the summer pruning, or entire lopping off" or cutting out branches 

 of considerable size, may be judicious and safe. For instance, in the case of neglected 

 orchard trees, in a luxuriant state, with dense heads in which the fruit is deprived of 

 air and light. In such cases, branches may be thinned out, and the cut surface heals 

 over more rapidly and smoothly than at any other time. But it is unsafe to produce 

 any very sensible diminution of foliage, as it arrests the growth of the tree. 



All pruning in the growing season, tends to arrest growth. Nurserymen know 

 that a slight pruning of stocks before budding, will so arrest growth as to make the 

 bark adhere firmly ; when, before the pruning, it lifted fi-eely. It is on this principle 

 that most all pruning, to promote fruitfuluess, must be done, at a point of a greater or 

 less activity of growth. Late spring pruning is often resorted to as a means of subduing 

 a superabundant vigor, and it has the same effect as root pruning to a certain extent. ^ 



W^ 



