2W FOREIGN KOTICES. 



be well nttoii<loJ to with wn-ter, nnd they should be spriuklcd ovcr-hend with the syringe mom 

 in" and cvcniiifr, unless during cold cluudy weather; it Bhould, however, always be ascertained 

 before pyringiug whether the soil requires water, ns the moisture on the sui-faee occasioned by 

 the syringing is very a]it to deceive persons not much accustomed to the management of jilants, 

 and the ball is thus miknowingly allowed to become much too dry. Care must be exercised to 

 £fet the wood properly ripened in autumn, and shading should be discontinued in August, nnd 

 the i^lants fully exposed to sun and air, merely using the lights to protect them from heavy rains. 

 They should be removed to a light airy situation in the greenhouse by the end of September, and 

 kept cool, and very carefully supplied with water during the Avinter months. 



Plants thus treated would probably blossom ])rofusely in spring, but allowing them to do so 

 would be a considerable loss of time, and those who aim at making large handsome specimens in 

 the shortest possible period should cut back the shoots e<irly in spring, so as to remoye the 

 blossom-buds, and this should be done at Iciist a fortnight jirevious to removing them to a situa- 

 tion to encourage growth. This will allow time for the buds left to swell, nnd they will break 

 more regularly and freely than if the cutting back were deferred iintil the plants were placed in 

 a growing temperature. If the directions for stopping and training have been so far properly 

 practised, nothing further in this way will be necessary at present ; but when active growth 

 commences, the same attention will be required this season as last, and the plante should be 

 treated in every way as recommended for last season. If all goes on well, they will be nice 

 si^ed plants before winter, and may be allowed to blossom in spring. While in flower they are 

 well worth shading, which prolongs considerably the duration of the blossoms. When done 

 blossoming the shoots should be pruned back to wood buds, and thinned out if necessary by 

 cutting out weakly ones, and staking or pegging out the others, and when the buds start into 

 growth a moderate sliift may be given. 



For soil, take three-fourths rich turfy peat, one-fourth turfy sandy loam ; break these into 

 small pieces, add about one-quarter sharp silver sand, and a sprinkling of clean potsherds, and 

 intimately mix the whole together. — Alpha, in Gardeners' Chronicle, March 5. 



Gesneka oblongata. — ^When well managed this is decidedly a handsome plant, and it is more 

 accommodating in its habits than most varieties of the genus, growing and flowering as it does 

 for months in succession during winter. It is readily increased by means of cuttings, which may 

 be obtained in s])ring from young growing plants. Firm, short-jointed, well-ripened pieces should 

 be selected foe the purpose, inserting them in sandj^ peaty soil, covering with a bell-gla-ss, and 

 plunging in a gentle bottom heat of from TO" to 80", where, in the course of a month or six 

 weeks, they will be sufficiently rooted to bear potting off singly in small pots. It will be 

 necessary to place tlie young plants in a rather close, moist, warm situation until they have 

 become well established, when they may be removed to a cooler position, and allowed more 

 light and air. During summer they cannot have better accommodation than a cold frame, kept 

 moist and rather close, and shaded from the forenoon's sun ; here they will m-ake rapid progress, 

 and must be shifted as may be requisite to afford sufficient space for the roots. In order to secure 

 a dwarf compact form it will be necessary to stop the leading shoot occasionally ; and if thrips 

 make their appearance, and this plant when kept growing during the early months of summer is 

 rather subject to them, tobacco smoke should be applied the moment they are perceived, and as 

 often as required to eradicate them. As soon as damp cloudy weather occurs in autumn, remove 

 the plants to a situation near the glass in a house or pit, where the night temperature can be kept 

 at about 50° or 55", which will be sufficiently warm to promote active growth. The plants may 

 be allowed to remain here till about Christmas, when it will be advisable to remove them to a 

 temperature some 10° lower, giving water very sparingly, in order to afford them a season of 

 rest; but this sort must not be treated, when in a dormant state, like the tuberous rooted 

 varieties which require no water during that period ; a small allowance, however, will be suffi- 

 cient, merely enough to prevent the soil from becoming excessively dry. 



If the plants are wanted to flower during the winter months (and with early propagation, and 

 good management afterwards, nice sized specimens are easily obtained in two seasons), it will be 



