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^Wj 3T0 APPLE ORCHARDS. 



distaiioo down the tree, that when the new shoots put out they may form a hand- 

 some toi>. Those sprouts, if they arc of thrifty <,M-owtli, may be jjrarted tlic second 

 season, or " budded," as tlie case may be. Old lar<;e trees of slow <j;niwlli should 

 not, in all cases, have tlieir wliole top taken oft" at once, as the shock mij^Iit kill tliem. 

 ]>ut in these cases the south lialf of tlie tree miirjit be taken oti' first ; tlien, say in 

 two years after, the north lialf could be treated in the same way, and the tree saved. 

 As to the time of prunincf apple trees, it may be <lone any time from May to October ; 

 but it should be done roii:ular every year, and then only small limbs will be taken 

 oft"; but in the case of old, neglected orchards, more or less of large limbs must be 

 removed. About all the tools wanted are a sharp hand-saw, a fine pruning-saw, and 

 pruning-knife. It will be well to have the large wounds covered by a composition of 

 gum shellac, dissolved in alcohol to the consistency of paint, and put on with a brush. 

 This, I think, is as cheap and as good composition as can be had for closing the pores 

 of the w^ood — also protecting it from the weather. The best grafting wax I have 

 ever used is that made of four parts of rosin, two of bees wax, and one of tallow, 

 melted together, and kept in an iron kettle. In an ordinary sunny day the kettle, 

 standing in the sun, will gather sufficient heat to keep the wax in good working 

 order. This wax will not melt in the hottest weather; neither will it crack and come 

 ofl:' in the coldest weather ; but it will, remain on the stock two or three years, or 

 until it is entirely healed over. Another thing which should be done at the time 

 of pruning is, the trees should be scraped entirely of moss and rough bark, by a 

 " tree scraper." This can be done best directly after a heavy storm, as the bark and 

 moss then Avill be in the right condition to come off. After this cleaning, a wash, 

 made from wood ash lye, or potash water, should be put on the trunks and large 

 limbs, which will kill all insects and larvje, giving to the bark a smooth appearance. 

 The "scrapers" may be had at any of the implement stores at a cheap rate. 



If I were to advise whether to plant a new orchard or renovate an old one, I 

 should say, renovate the old one first, by all means ; because your labor can be made 

 to pay a great deal quicker on the old orchard than on the new. In from three to 

 four years' time your newly grafted trees will begin to bear, and so continue to increase 

 from year to year, while at the same time you have made a handsome improvement on 

 the stock of your orchard. Old orchards tl^nat are kept permanently in grass should 

 have the soil dug up around the trees every season ; and if done as far as the 

 branches extend, it will be all the better. Manure should be dug into the soil occa- 

 sionally, as the case requires. Where orchards are near the "pigery" it is a good 

 plan to let the swine have the run of the orchard through the warm season, as they 

 will eat and destroy most of the " windfalls" under the trees, and also keep the soil 

 stirred up in search of worms, &c. Much is being done, at present, by formers and 

 cultivators, in setting out young orchards. This is a commendable work, and shows 

 that the right spirit is at work among our farmers. lUit the setting out of a young 

 I orchard, and then letting the trees take care of themselves, is a " loose business," 

 too many cultivators still follow to their own loss. 

 The soil in an orchard should be kept under cultivation the whole time. 



