rROPAGATION AND CULTURE OF TREE8. 



ally take root. An observation of thousands of trees has satisfied me that those trees 

 oTowinij on their own roots are longer-lived than those grafted standard high, and 

 longer-lived and more thrifty than most seedlings. One seedling out of four may be 

 found very vigorous and healthy. 



Pears I grow chiefly on healthy sprouts that are easily transplanted, bud freely, and 

 layer readily. In these, at the usual season, I insert from one to a dozen buds, accord- 

 ing to the size and vigor of the stalk. These buds are inserted on the same side, one 

 above the other, about five inches apart. At the proper season the stock is trimmed 

 of all limbs and buds but those inserted, and topped, and then weakened by a cut at 

 the ground on the same side the buds are set, and is brought over rather more 

 than half to the ground. Here it remains until the shoots are from three to six 

 inches long. Then a trench is dug three inches deep, and the stock is lipped just 

 below each bud and then brought into the little ditch and fostened there as a layer. If 

 the weather is hot, a little fine leafy brush is put around them. After a few days, 

 when the trees have become accustomed to their new position, I draw in a little fine 

 dirt w^hicli I continue from time to time until they are well rooted. This gives the 

 tree its choice between its own root and the root of the stock on which it is budded. 

 Nine out of ten will show a preference in the end for their own roots, though a free- 

 growing stock will generally root first. I will make no argument in favor of this mode 

 of growing trees. I am aware many learned professors call all such worthless trash. I 

 may only say I have seen some of the oldest worn out varieties, of great age, growing 

 on their own roots, with the seeming health and vigor of youth, and that I am quite 

 willing to risk the planting of considerable numbers of them. 



When I have once got a good stock of a variety, I can of course dispense with my 

 sprout stocks and grow them directly as layers. Most kinds root without great trouble 

 and grow well. I will only add that I prefer all healthy, vigorous trees on their own 

 roots. I know no tree which I should deem profitable to set out in an orchard which 

 I'would not prefer on its own roots. Even the Early Harvest and Sweet Bough pros- 

 per well with me on their own roots. But most of my pear trees of this class are yet 

 small. 



In trimming trees in the nursery, and when set out, my later practice is quite odd. 

 It is very offensive to the great majority of opinions. I endeavor to grow no nice, 

 pretty, clean, smooth stems, six or seven feet high, that w'ould make a good ramrod. 

 Some, indeed, I run up pretty well, but I rub no buds off, and only pinch the shoots 

 when they have three or four leaves, so that each stock becomes a mass of verdure. As 

 I have practiced this mode only a few years, I can only say it seems to me to promise 

 well. I have not practiced it to an extent which would enable me to give any opinion 

 based on observation, but it is my confident conviction that there can be nothing bet- 

 ter to start standard pears on than the quince stock. We know they start vigorously, 

 and also that, if the pear stock is set well under the ground Avhen it is transplanted, it 

 will root freely. Why should not such make the very best standard orchard trees ? 

 I have no doubt they will. 



It seems to me that in this way we might secure early maturity in bearing, and in 



