TTKAMIDAL TREES. 



mended tlie leaving of eighteen inches of the first year's wood. Now, if there is any 

 analogy between working up a horizontal tree and a pyramid, why would not the 

 same system of pruning be adapted to the one as well as the other in the first forma- 

 tion of the tree, the object being the same in both, viz., to secure a well-developed 

 base the second year from the bud ? 



I can not think that any of the advocates of this system of long pruning for pyra- 

 mids, would recommend the same length of wood in a horizontal tree. For my 

 part, if I was going to head down a tree of one year's growth, to be worked up 

 as a horizontal or a pyramid, I would cut down to about 

 five good buds, leaving the top bud for the perpendicular, 

 while the four remaining ones would form the base ; and if for 

 a pyramid, it would be something like the annexed figure. 

 But the objection to this system of pruning might be this: 

 the growth in this country is so great, as compared to the 

 growth in England, that the bottom buds on our trees are 

 abortive ;* and by heading down to full and perfect buds, 

 accounts for our long system of pruning. But suppose these 

 trees were headed down as soon as all danger of a second 

 growth was over, would not these buds become fully developed 

 by the spring ? This, I am aware, would not suit nurserymen, 

 as most people like to prune their own trees, whether they 

 know how or not. But I think there is no danger even if the 

 lower buds are not as well developed as we could wish, for this reason : I headed down 

 several trees last January that were two years old, without any appearance of good 

 buds ; these trees all threw out good strong shoots, and may be formed into handsome 

 pyramids. I think there can be no doubt that a tree may be formed the first year from 

 the bud, similar to the above figure, by keeping the terminal bud pinched out until the 

 base of the tree is formed.f This ought to be done when the shoot reaches about 

 eight or ten inches, but never ought to exceed ten. This is an experiment I have not 

 tried, for the want of young trees ; but still I think, by not allowing the shoot to make 

 one straight growth, we stop the superabundant sap which would flow into that part 

 of the tree that is to be cut ofi" — therefore there can be no economy in allowing the 

 tree to grow into one straight shoot the first year, to be cut off and thrown away the 

 next. But if by pinching the first year's bud, as directed above, we get from four to 

 six good laterals at the base of the tree, I think we shall be saving one year. 



The object in growing pyramidal Pears ought to be the beauty of the tree, as well 

 as the goodness of the fruit ; but if in the first instance we spare the knife, we spoil 



* No difficulty on this point — the lowest buda on a yearling shoot may be forced out by close pruning. — Ed. 



+ This answers very well with some varieties, such as form lateral buds as the growth proceeds. Many varieties, 

 however, will not throw out side branches by pinching, but merely stop growing for a time, until a good terminal bud 

 is formed, when it pushes; and trees of this kind are much injured by pinching. We have tried this experiment 

 extensively. "We are satisfied that, in all cases, it Is safer to allow the yearling tree to complete its growth in our cli- 

 mate, aud then cut back to the desired point ; the buds thus left have great force, and push vigorously. In the South, 

 where a late growth is common, pinching the extremities at a time when the lateral buds are not likely to push, will 

 no doubt aid in ripening the wood and perfecting the buds.— Ed. 



