MARCH 3, 18,M8. 



The Weekly Florists^ Review. 



571 



fume had not been lost in any appar- 

 ent degree. This is only what might be 

 expected, tor the glands to secrete the 

 fragrance have more significance in the 

 rose tlian mere shape and color. 



In the development of floral organs 

 from foliage the bright colors doubt- 

 less came before the odor, or in other 

 words, a change of color that is a loss 

 of the floral tint is a less transition 

 than the destruction of the glands that 

 furnish the odor. 



Masters, in his Vegetable Teratology, 

 mentions several cases of alterations 

 in roses. One of these is of a case 

 where the sepals become leafy in the 

 ordinary sense that it has the usual 

 compound leaves, the tip or swollen 

 urn shaped cavity is absent and the 

 stem grows for some distance beyond a 

 ring of petals and then bears a supple- 

 mentary flower. This is the ordinary 

 form of a proliferous rose, that is, cue 

 placed above another or in prolongation 

 of the floral axis. 



This manner of increase may be car- 

 ried so far that from the center of a 

 flower, a whole bush, bearing several 

 blooms, may proceed. This is shown in 

 figure 2. redrawn from a cut given by 

 Dr. Masters. The result is quite differ- 

 ent from the green roses in the first en- 

 graving, but upon the final analysis the 

 end reached is the same. In both there 

 is proof that a rose is only a branch 

 more or less modified, shortened and 

 swollen, and bearing leaves that form a 

 change of form and coloring designat- 

 ed petals, etc., instead of leaves. Flow- 

 ers, in short, are transformed stems 

 with tlieir metamorpliosed leaves for a 

 purpose other than that of food synthe- 

 sis. These malformations are some- 

 times the key to the true significance of 

 the parts that have been changed. In 

 other words, the disguise is removed 

 and the structure stands out in its plain 

 morphological light. 



BYRON D. HALSTED. 

 Rutgers College, New Brunswick, 

 N. J., Jan. 19, 1898. 



TOMATO GROWING UNDER GLASS 

 • IN WINTER. 



The seed is sown in flats about July 

 10, which place in a cold frame or 

 greenhouse. Attend closely to water- 

 ing in this stage as in every other 

 stage of their growth. When the first 

 rough leaf is developed pot singly into 

 3-inch pots which will carry them until 

 they are planted into their permanent 

 quarters for fruiting, which is done to- 

 wards the end of August, 



Tomatoes can be grown successfully 

 in solid beds, ordinary greenhouse 

 benches or boxes, the latter about 12 

 inches deep preferable. The soil most 

 suitable is fibrous loam mixed with a 

 little well rotted manure about one- 

 tenth of the latter to about nine-tenths 

 of the loam. Press the soil moderately 

 firm. Introduce your plants, planting 

 twenty inches apart in the row and 

 two feet between the rows, that is on 

 benches. 



In training the leader or leaders, as 

 some growers favor one, others two. 



let them grow, without pinching, until 

 the crop of fruit is formed, then keep 

 them pinched. Strong string is gener- 

 ally used for supporting the plants, one 

 end of string secured to screw eyes in 

 the sash bars, the other end tied near 

 the base of the plants but allowing suf- 

 ficient room for the development of the 

 stem, the leaf above the tie prevents 

 the string slipping up the stem. The 

 string can hang from the perpendicu- 

 lar position to the horizontal, or any 

 angle between. A plant should have 

 six or seven feet length of string to 

 furnish a crop of fruit. If one leader 

 only is grown twist it around the 

 string as it grows. If two leaders are 



A Rose from which a branch with several 

 rose buds had grown, i After Masters, i 



grown to a plant the second one should 

 be tied into place from time to time. 

 If the strings have to be sloped on ac- 

 count of lack of height, and green- 

 house runs east and west, I prefer 

 sloping to the east as more of the fruit 

 is exposed to the beneficial action of 

 the sun. Pinch out all growth from 

 time to time except the leading shoots, 

 also cut the ends of leaves away when 

 too crowded. From the first develop- 

 ment of flowers on the plants, until the 

 entire crop is set, shake the plants 

 daily about noon, that is on sunny 

 days, when there will be more or less 

 pollen ripe for distribution. Two or 

 three slight quick taps of the plant 

 close to the blossoms have the de- 

 sired effect. This has to be resorted 

 to as they are never fertilized by bees, 

 as are most flowers. When the great- 

 er part of the crop is set and swelling 

 off the fruit, a mulch of rotten manure 

 is of great benefit or a watering twice 

 a week with manure water (cow ma- 

 nure is the best). I prefer feeding 

 them at this stage rather than to make 

 the soil too rich when the plan_ts are 



first planted, as then they are apt to 

 grow too luxuriant, at the expense of 

 fruiting. 



The greatest trouble in growing a 

 winter crop of tomatoes is to keep mil- 

 dew away or in check. A house of 

 tomatoes, like a house of roses, is often 

 permanently injured by neglecting to 

 use a little fire heat on cool nights dur- 

 ing the month of October with a little 

 top ventilation: it is bound to bring 

 that great evil mildew. If fire heat can- 

 not be resorted to at that time. I cer- 

 tainly would recommend giving a little 

 top ventilation and give every available 

 surface a dusting of air slacked lime 

 and sulphur, equal parts. A tomato 

 crop never wants syringing throughout 

 its career, in fact it is better to with- 

 hold water overhead, but don't let 

 them suffer for moisture at the roots. 



The first crop of tomatoes on benches 

 being over in February, if planted at 

 the end of August, and the house is 

 wanted for tomatoes again, clear out 

 the vines, cut the strings at the bottom 

 of the plants, slide the plants off the 

 strings and the strings will be strong 

 enough to carry the next crop. The 

 top half of the soil should be removed 

 and replaced by fresh soil, with a 

 moderate dressing of manure. Fork 

 all up together and introduce your 

 plants, which can be had in good con- 

 dition by sowing the first of December. 

 This crop will come in the beginning 

 of May. 



The proper temperature for winter 

 tomatoes is 60 degrees by night with a 

 rise of 10 degrees b.v day, or more with 

 sun heat. The most useful variety to 

 grow up to date I believe to be Loril- 

 lard. seeds saved from plants grown on 

 strong soil. I know of no plant that is 

 more benefited by a change of soil 

 and location than the tomato (that is 

 for seed growing.) H. 



THE CELERY LEAF-TYER. 



( Phlyctaenia f errugalis Hbn. ) 

 February 12 of the present year Mr. 

 Robert Mearns wrote Dr. L. O. How- 

 ard, entomologist of the Department of 

 Agriculture, that this species, speci- 

 mens of which in its different stages 

 were received, was doing great injury 

 in greenhouses in Toronto, Canada, 

 and request was made for an account 

 of it, to be published in The Florists' 

 Review. Inasmuch as the writer has 

 had experience with this species, dat- 

 ing from the year 1893, at the World's 

 Fair, at Chicago, 111., he has been re- 

 quested by Dr. Howard to prepare the 

 short account which follows. 



The insect concerned in this damage 

 is the so-called celery-borer (Phlyctae- 

 nia ferrugalis Hbn.), a cosmopolitan 

 moth introduced into this country 

 some time ago, presumably from Eu- 

 rope. Injury is due to the larva or 

 caterpillar. This is yellow or green, 

 with a pale brownish head, and the 

 first thoracic joint, or that just behind 

 the head, bears on each side two small 

 but conspicuous black dots. The body 

 is striped longitudinally with white 

 lines on the upper surface, and is rath- 



