410 



HORTICULTURE 



September 28, 1907 



AnotheT trouble frequently met with, is the mistaken 

 idea that a phlox bed graduallj' degenerates to ugly 

 magenta shade*. This, of course, is caused by allowing 

 seeds to fall in the bed, and as the ugly colors are 

 always stronger than ihe pretty ones, the result is in- 

 ferior varieties event nally predominating. To remedy 

 this, cut off the flower heads as soon as they are 

 through blooming, but do not cut them down to the 

 ground. Take ofE only the flower head, and you will 

 probably have another season of blooms before frost. 

 Phloxes do well in any position, and in any kind of 

 soil, although a prepared bed similar. to that usually 

 iiuide for roses is the liest. 



When planting do nut mix the colors, but plant in as 

 large masses as possible of one kind or color. Fifty 

 or one hundred in a mass will make the finest show 

 imaginable, but it is better to have one variety, rather 

 than one color in '^e\eral varieties, in a mass, as the 

 flowering season \<irics from one to three weeks. 



There are a Luge numljcr of named varieties of Phlox 

 decussata catalogued by a number of firms, and each 

 firm naturally considers their own collection the best, 

 and yet I think you will agree with me, that if twenty- 

 five or thirty varieties were selected from every one 

 offering them, all different names, when in flower, the 

 same number of varieties would be all you would need. 



In view of this fact I will not attempt to enumerate 

 what we consider the finest varieties, conflicting as I 

 may with other ojiinions. But let me give one word of 

 advice to those who are all the time introducing new 

 varieties, and that' is, do please avoid flat-headed spikes. 

 They spoil any form that the phlox is noted for. Not 

 only are they insignificant, but they do not seem to last 

 in bloom nearly as long as the others, such varieties 

 as liumineuy. Lord Eayleigh and Mars le Tour. 



Follow, rather, the old standards, with their enor- 

 mous conical shaped spikes like Saison's Lierval, Gen- 

 eral Chanzy, and that splendid late flowering variety, 

 so seldom seen, Coccinea. 



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Characteristics of the Ginkgo 



Editor HoRTicui.xuui:. 



Dear Sir: — I have Deen very jnuch interested in the 

 various communications you have published regarding 

 the Ginkgo tree. It has been used very freely in this 

 cemetery as it is not only graceful in appearance and 

 immune from pests, but because it is one of the few 

 trees which do not stain marble. 



I presume my friend Robert Cameron having his 

 time occupied in classifying "Job" has not had time to 

 write you on the question of how far apart the seed 

 bearing tree may be from the male species and yet be 

 fruitful. Three years ago the Ginkgo trees at the 

 Botanic Gardens bore fruit, and the nearest male tree 

 was in Mount .Auburn Cemetery, about a mile away as 

 the crow flies. At that time it was stated that through 

 investigation by the Japanese horticulturists it w^s 

 found that the trees were fruitful if not over a mile and 

 a quarter apart. 



Respectfully yours, 



James C. Scorgie. 



Mi. Auburn Cemetery, Camhridge, Mass. 



Zonal Pelargoniums for Winter 

 Flowering 



Altliough geraniuii's arc very showy when artistically 

 arranged for summer bedding they are fast becoming 

 obsolete and have, to n large extent, given place to the 

 more interesting herbaceous plants. 



On account of the fact that the single geraniums 

 are more continuous in flowering and can be had in 

 attractive condition during the duller months of the 

 year they are admirably adapted for winter flowering 

 and relieving a strain upon tlie resources of an estab- 

 lishment when relief is most needed. 



Tbe old saying that anyone can grow a geraniuui is 

 infallibly a false one. Almost every gai'dener grows 

 more or less of these plants and we very seldom find a 

 good display of winter flowering pelargoniums. 



CTT.TI'RE 



The best time to propagate these plants is in the fall, 

 for winter flowering, securing short Jointed firm wood, 

 rejecting all th.ose which are gross and sappy, also avoid- 

 ing propagating too many varieties. Five or six good 

 harmonious colors are sufficient. 



Wien the cuttings have formed roots, pinch out the 

 points. In a few weeks fresh gTowth will appear and 

 will require repotting. Firm potting is imperative, 

 otherwise sappy and unfloriferous wood will be the 

 result. Continue pinching the points nut at every 

 second or third joint until the latter part of August; 

 by this time they will be in their flowering pots and 

 six to seven inch pots will be found the most servicable 

 for winter flowering. 



During the summer the plants should be plunged in 

 a sunny position out-doors to secure short jointed firm 

 wood and frequently turned to prevent the roots from 

 going outside the pots. Young plants invariably give 

 the best results, always jn-ovided they are not allowed 

 to weaken themselves by flowerijig throughout the sum- 

 mer. 



TKEATJiENT 



Until near tlie time for housing, which siiould be 

 about the end of September, pinch oft' all the flowers. 

 After housing give ample room — this is an important 

 point — and avoid excess of heat and moisture as this 

 promotes sappy, flowerless growth. They require a 

 temperature ranging from .50 degrees to 55 degrees, 

 with rather a dry atmosphere, with the addition of a 

 weekly supjily of liquid manure. 



Wiicn the flowers begin to open pinch off the first 

 two or three flowers, otherwise the center flowers of 

 the trusses will be past before the truss is fully ex- 

 panded and a space in the center will be left. 



Under this treatment no tieing or unsightly stakes 

 will be required and the plants ought to produce abund- 

 ance of perfectly formed trusses and continue flowering 

 for a considerable time during the duller months of 

 the vear. 



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