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EDITOU'S T-VBLE. 



wliPii It (loooratL's n lawn ? And oiiglil ono of Ibcse artii-los, wlion uscil as a garden oniainrnl, to sinnd eniply, or to 

 b«- niU'd Willi tMirtli and planted with small trailing vini'.t nr flnwcrs? Urns were used anciently, nil know, an de|Kislla 

 for llie aMiios of the dead ; and thorefore, when employed in coinctoriea at the present day, should not contain flowers. 

 Hut ns wo wish to suggest very ilitforent ideas by our garden decorations, should wc not enliven our vases or urns, 

 (whichever they l«e,) with flowers? 



I hLve a Norway Spruce which was decapitaleil a year ago, but which I now wish to grow erect Can its leading 

 shoot be restored? And if so, how can it be done ? (:).) A. I>. O. 



(1.) Tlie Uemlocks, Red Cediir, Arbor Vit;i's, all the Junipers, and even the Norway Spruce, 

 may be kept quite low by shcariiig or pruning the tops only; but none of these compensate for 

 the want of broad leaved evergreens, such as Hollies, Rhododendrons, Kulmias, <tc. Au article 

 from Mr. Munn, on this subject, will be given in our ne.xt number. 



(■2.) All urn is quite a different thing from a vase. The former lias a covered top, and was 

 formerly used as a receptacle for the ashes of the dead after the bodies were burnt. It is not 

 ill actual use at the present day, except as a mere ornament in cemeteries. Large, classic vases, 

 such as the Warwick, Borghese. and Florence, are in themselves beautiful works of art, and as such 

 are placed in gardens or on lawns without plants; but all small vases, cast-iron, rustic, ttc., should 

 be filled with plants; they are evidently intended for that purpose. A small, enijity cast-iron 

 vase on a lawn is a paltry piece of affectation. 



(3.) Take the most vigorous shoot in the best position for a leader, and fasten to a stake, 

 attached below to the stem of the tree. 



VTii.i, you have the goodness to enlighten me a little on the management of the Manetii Eose. Some three years ago 

 I purchased a few dozen plants, with a view to increase them by cuttings, which I understood would grow almost as 

 readily as a Willow. The next autumn I headed all the plants down, making as many cuttings as possible, allowing 

 three or four buds to each. These were planted carefully, and to secure them against the clTects of the winter, about 

 two inches of chopped thatch was spread over the surface. The cuttings appeared bright in the spring, but not one 

 of them rooted ! Since this experiment I have grown them by layers, but when it is desirable to pro|)agate them 

 rapidly, cuttings are preferable. Having a few strong plants, I should like to ascertain if I can use their tops suc- 

 cessfully in the open ground, for cuttings. Please inform me at what time they should be planted, and in what sort 

 of sr>il, Ac. Another difflcuKy I have experienced is, that, although I have had some little experience in budding, 

 and find no diflicully when I use Siceet Briar, or Boursault stocks, I do not succeed at all when the Jfant-tfi is used. 



Can you also tell ine how I can succeed in getting seed of Linden, Cornu-s niasculti, and I[alexi<t tetruiiUra, to grow ? 

 I have sowed them in the autumn, but could never succeed in getting one of either of them to grow. Tlic Cornna 

 jnu'culu I have managed according to the direction giien for managing Haws, and at other times planted them in 

 autumn. The Ilalesin I have sowed entire as it was taken from the tree, and sometimes cut in so as to expose the 

 kernel ; but they wouldn't grow. A Reader. 



The Manetii Rose grows from cuttings as freely as Willows. We cannot xrnderstand the cause 

 of your failure, because we succeed in the same way. We plant in spring generally; just as we 

 would Currant cuttings, and bud the same season. The buds take rather better late in the sea- 

 son, say l^t September when the strongest growth is over. 



About seeds — the Linden rarely grows well ; the others should succeed by keeping them In a 

 rot-heap one season. We treat them in this way successfully. 



Allow me to prepare a little matter for your consideration, or that of those of your subscriber? learned in pome- 

 logical nomenclature. Unde deriiiatus Passk Cohnart That the above is almost universal orthography I have no 

 doubt, but it has always sounded to mo unmitigated nonsense. I have a copy of 77<# Gardener'H /lemf-mhrunrff., 

 published at Glasgow in 1S19, by .James Maci'iiaii, in which he lists a Pear as Colmar. About 1S34 I added three 

 or four varieties to this list upon the recommendation of Mr. Joiix Page, Gardener to Sir .John Delvrs BKOucnrfix, 

 Bart., of Doddington Park, Cheshire, England, among which is Percy Colmnr. Tliis list I afterwards (in 1S41) 

 re'orred to in conversation with a Mr. Joubekt, a somewhat lf>cally noted orchardist and vine-grower at Verton. in 

 Brittany, and I perfectly remember his recognizing the cognomen as there written. The book alluded to has been 

 out of my possession for many years, until within a few weeks past, when I received it with other portions of a fam- 

 ily library from France, and the entries above alluded to happening to catch my eje, I deemed the matter, though 

 trivial, at any rale worth a moment's consideration. If any inquiry on the subject is merited, there is no fitter arena 

 f r the disquisition than the increasingly valuable pages of the Horticulturist. Ze.vas. — West Brighton, 111. 



The Passe Colmar is one of those Pears to which a score of synonyms have been given. Tlie 

 word Passe is of various significations in French; in this case it appears to indicate a superiority 

 to the old Colmar, once a popular variety all over Europe. We take this to be the true nomen 

 We have Passe tardive, a very late Pear, in the same way. Surpass in English would 

 the same meanintr. 



