CULTURE OF THE TOMATO. 



up to it, whicli vn^l encourage fresli roots and strengthen the plant. K the weather 

 be dry, give a good soaldng of water; and so far all is finished. 



A few words may be said about training. The most comrdon mode is to spread out 

 the branches, and let them trail along the ground, in which case, if cleanhness be cared 

 for, there ought to be a covering of marsh hay or straw placed over the surface. Some- 

 times brush-wood is laid flat, and the branches allowed to lay over the top of it, which 

 elevates the fruit above the soil, and prevents it from rotting, if the season should hap- 

 pen to be wet ; but there is no other advantage in the method, and it is inconvenient 

 when gathering. The neatest and cleanest plan, and one which may be adopted in all 

 private estabUshments, is to sink poles in an upright position along each row, leaving 

 the tops five feet above ground, (if placed four yards apart, it will be close enough,) and 

 fasten wires horizontally to them, which will form a cheap trellis to train upon. As the 

 branches elongate, they may be tied loosely to these wires, and a kind of hedge-row is 

 formed with veiy little labor, the fruit is free to the action of air and light, and is 

 unquestionably of much better flavor. 



Succession Crop. — Notwithstanding the extreme fmitfulness of the Tomato, it often 

 happens that the earliest planting becomes exhausted before the end of summer, and 

 only produces a decreased quantity of inferior fruit, when a succession becomes useful. 

 In this case, it is only necessaiy to spw in the open ground about th-e middle of April, 

 and transplant as recommended above. The plants from this stock wall continue to 

 yield with certainty until cut down by frost ; and if covered over at night, may be kept 

 bearing longer than if unprotected. 



Growing through Winter. — There is no difliculty in growing and fruiting the 

 Tomato through the winter and spring months, where such is desired. Indeed, no 

 fruit-bearing plant is more easy to manage thus artificially, with the possession of a suit- 

 able structure. A close and sheltered glazed pit is the best and most economical, 

 although a moderately warm plant-house is nearly equally convenient; but there must 

 be a full exposure to the sun, or the blossoms will not fertilize. The seed may be sown 

 the last week in August, and when large enough for transplanting, remove the plants 

 into the house, ha\ing previously prepared for their reception. A suitable provision 

 may be made by fixing boards, with the sides upright, along the inside front of the 

 house, and three feet from it ; fill in one foot deep with good fresh mold, and place 

 the plants three feet asunder in the bed so formed. If this arrangement can not be 

 adopted on account of some peculiarity in the house, large boxes filled with rich earth 

 will answer the purpose to almost equal advantage. As the plants continue to grow 

 upward, train them near the glass, in the same way as a Grape vine, only allow the 

 side shoots to spread out, so as to cover the whole surface so far as they extend. This 

 may be done very simply, by stretching copper wires horizontally along on the under 

 side of the roof, and eight inches from it. After planting, give plenty of air till cold 

 nights come on, when a little fire heat is necessary. The most suitable temperature 

 through the niglit, is from 55° to 60° ; and this ought to be maintained pretty regu- 

 larly. In the day time it may be allowed, with sun heat, to rise to 75° or 80°, always 

 admitting air on eveiy suitable opportunity. In cloudy or foggy weather, it is well to 

 keep close, or to give air very carefully, as the plants, if exposed to too much damp 

 old, are subject to be attacked by a black mildew, which destroys the leav^ 

 ens the blossoms, renderiug them abortive. If such should occur, sprinkle a 



