BOUQUETS AND FLORAL ORNAMENTS. 



4, commencing at the top with the smaller flowers, 

 and gradually widening at the base with the larger, 

 taking care to assort the colors so as to make as much 

 contrast as possible, and also to fill in the interstices 

 between the larger flowers with the smaller. 



If the bouquet is flat, as shown in fig. 3, it is not 

 absolutely necessary to have a strong stick in the cen- 

 ter, but I would recommend it on account of its advan- 

 tages in preserving a symmetrical form. Begin with 

 a Camellia or Rose for the center, then a circle of 

 small flowers, 



then say four or 

 more Roses or 

 Camellias dis- 

 posed around 

 the center, and 

 then another 

 circle of small 

 flowers ; and 

 then, if the bou- 

 quet is not large 

 enough, another row of Camellias or Roses, and 

 a few more small flowers, finishing with a circle 

 of Rose or Oak-leaf Geranium leaves tied singly 

 to whisk straws, and some Arbor Vitre, Cedar, or 

 other evergreen, below all. To preserve a flat or 

 oval surface to a bouquet, be careful not to tie 

 the stems or twigs too high up on the center 

 stick, for in that case the flowers would face 

 outward^ as in a pyramidal bouquet, instead of 

 ii2)ward. 



If you wish a bouquet to be kept for a long 

 time, the interstices between the twigs or stems 

 should be filled with moss, evergreen, or any- 

 thing that will retain moisture. 



It will add much to the grace and beauty of 

 the bouquet to introduce skillfully some hand- 

 some green foliage to break the monotonous 

 effect, and some of the smallest and choicest 

 flowers should be allowed to project beyond the 

 surface of the bouquet. 



Large bouquets, or pyramids, for table orna- 

 ments, are generally made on a frame-work of 

 evergreen. For this puqiose, take a number of 

 lies of Cedar, Hemlock, or other evergreen, 

 ind them in a kind of sheaf, with strong 



