a fine specimen of tlie Louise Bonne Pear; the pips are plump and brown; I take 

 them from the core, go to one of the pots of earth, and with my finger and thumb care- 

 fully press in the pips, one at a time, to about an inch deep, and level the surface with 

 mv hand; I then write on the label, say, '■"Louise Bonne I'ear, October, 1855;" a piece 

 of slate or tile is then placed on the pot so as to completely cover it, and prevent the 

 ingress of mice. A few days after this I may be again eating a Louise Bonne Pear ; I 

 reserve the pips, remove the covering from the pots, and plant them with the others ; 

 and so repeat this till some fifteen pips are planted, which will raise quite enough trees 

 from one variety. Again, it is February ; I am at my dessert ; a delicious Josephine 

 de Malines Pear gives me some fine pips ; I place them in paj)er (my pots ,of earth are 

 frozen), write the name on it, and have a pot of earth taken to the green-house, or, in 

 default of such a structure, to the kitchen, plant the pips as above, write on the label, 

 ^'Josephine de Malines Pear, February, 1855;" then cover the pot as directed, and 

 place it out of doors, covering it with mulch. I omitted to say that at the end of 

 November all the pots, with their covers, should be covered with mulch one foot deep. 

 The young plants from the pips sown, in the autumn will make their appearance early 

 in April, if the weather be mild ; the pips sown in February or March will not vegetate 

 till A2)ril or May ; the pips sown in May will probably remain dormant till the follow- 

 ing April. 



There are two methods of managing young Pear seedlings. The most simple, and 

 one well adapted for those whose hands are full of gardening matters, is merely to let 

 the pots stand on the bricks or tiles, removing them to a shady place, all the summer 

 giving them abundance of water. Each young tree will, or ought to be, twelve to 

 eighteen inches in height by the end of summer, and its stem as thick as a quill, and 

 well ripened. About the end of October these seedlings may be planted out in the 

 garden, in rows three feet apart, and eighteen inches apart in the rows, with labels to 

 each sort ; and in the following April, if there is a wish to bring them rapidly into 

 bearing, each young seedling tree may be cut down to within two inches of its base, 

 and one or two scions made from it (one ought to be enough, and that made from the 

 lower part of the shoot). These should be grafted upon some stout stocks, or upon 

 branches of a bearing tree. An excellent plan is, to buy at a nursery old dwarf Pear 

 trees at a cheap rate, without names, to plant them out one year, and then to graft 

 them with seedlings, cutting them to a stump nine or ten inches in height. They will 

 soon make nice pyramidal trees, and, by being removed biennially, will come into bear- 

 ing quickly, and not occupy much room. Every sort should be labelled with its origin 

 in this way : "From Marie Louise, Nov., 1854," and so on. This gives much interest 

 to the culture of seedling Pears ; for, while waiting some six or seven years, till they 

 bear fruit, their habits will be found very interesting. In most instances, a strong 

 family likeness to their parent may be distinguished in the leaves and shoots of the 

 young trees, varied by now and then a puny, weakly young one, which will canker and 

 die in three or four years, and then by some one or two trees in ten showing a wide 

 departure from the parental stock, making vigorous, thorny shoots, and growing as 

 much in one year as other members of the family in three. Contrary to the views of 

 "parent, pastors, and masters," in general, it is these renegades that give the liveliest 

 to the raiser of Pears. I have at this moment several rows of seedling 

 ears from the graft. They were grafted on old dwarf Pear trees, and hav 



