WHEN AND now TO PLANT TREES. 



teen inches in the soil, and the other hanging four feet above the surface. In the 

 month of October, the soil aven^ged 10 degrees warmer than the air, a condition 

 most favorable for newly planted trees ; the increased heat of the soil over that of 

 the atmosphere tending to the formation of roots, the branches being in a colder and 

 less excitable medium remain comparatively inactive, and the plant recovers to a 

 certain extent the balance destroyed in the loss of roots by removal. On the other 

 hand, the temperature of the atmosphere and the soil in spring is completely re- 

 versed, the former increasing rapidly in heat while the soil absorbs warmth slowly, 

 the branches are thus excited in advance of the roots, leaves are produced which in- 

 creases the evil by exhausting the plant, which as yet has no roots to supply that 

 demand ; hence we frequently observe spring-planted trees coming out into leaf, and 

 be in apparent health, wither up suddenly under the influence of a few bright, warm 

 days. 



Further advantages might be claimed in favor of fall-planting, on account of the 

 superior hygrometrical state of the air, which in general contains more moisture than 

 during early spring months, when we frequently experience dry, piercing winds 

 highly destructive to the roots of plants subject to its influence. 



The disadvantages of fall-planting may now be considered. In the first place, 

 unless it is done early to allow a new root formation before frost, no gain can be de- 

 rived from it. In this locality, from the first to the middle of October is the period. 

 Large trees that can be removed and planted at once, may very safely be operated 

 upon as soon as the leaves change color. This I consider the best time for such 

 removals. Then again, should the ground to be planted contain much water, it will 

 soon become cold, not only retarding root gi'owth, but endangering the life of the 

 tree during the inactive winter season. Further, should we have high winds in 

 spring, with the thermometer in the neighborhood of zero, as occurred for several 

 successive days last March, the plants will be dried up or the buds destroyed. I 

 have this day, (August 25th,) examined trees planted the middle of last October, 

 which have not produced a single leaf so far this season, the bark is quite fresh and 

 green, but the buds are all destroyed. Even those that have grown are making 

 slow progress, compared with others in the same situation that were planted last 

 April. 



Some kinds are more hardy than others j I have always found the Peach, Apple, 

 Quince, and Pear on Quince, among fruit, and the Maples, Poplars, Willows, &c., 

 among ornamental trees, succeed best in spring-planting ; while the Cheny, Plum, 

 and Pear, Oaks, Hickories, "Walnuts, Chesnuts, &c., are more generally successful, 

 when moved in autumn. 



These remarks apply so far to deciduous trees. Evergreens should be removed in 

 spring. They may be removed at all seasons with success, if proper care is taken 

 to save most of the roots ; the season seems unimportant. I have moved large sized 

 Norway and Hemlock Firs in July, when the ground was baked hard and dry, taking 

 up large balls of earth, and watering thoroughly after planting. I have also seen 

 successful planting on what is termed the frozen-ball system in mid -winter. 



