HOETICULTURE 



January 11, 1913 



FRUIT AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CONDUCTED BY 



Oupstions bv our readers In line with any of the topics presented on this page will be cordially recelTed and promtply answered 

 questions °y,°"^ ™|."/„'g^on Snch communications should invariably be addressed to the office of HORTICULTURE. 



Tying Peach and Nectarine Trees 



With all the cleaning and renovating done in a peach 

 and nectarine house the tying of the trees comes as a 

 climax to the winter work. It is usually a happy job 

 and I guess there is not one amongst us who has had 

 companions at the job who cannot recall many a yarn 

 spun as the ties went in. Lots of the previous work 

 has to be governed by the weather but when it comes 

 to tying, it is there for any hail, rain or sunshine-day. 

 To one accustomed to the work, a clean, symmetrical and 

 good finished tree, bristling with flower buds, is as pretty 

 as later on when the flowers open in all their glory. 



The tree being entirely cut away from the wires it al- 

 lows any of tlie stronger growths to be moved if desired. 

 Use some string of fair strength to keep these in the 

 required position. The effect of a whole tree can be 

 spoilt and much time and labor lost by carelessly laying 

 in this big wood, which is the nucleus of the whole sys- 

 tem and once tied in with the small i)ieces around cannot 

 be removed without taking it all down again. See that 

 the strong wood is laid in right and the rest is easy. 

 Always see that the bottom of the tree is well furnished 

 with wood, drawing it down from the center, which 

 should always be open. It will be found that the center 

 will fill up itself very quickly. Leave enough room in 

 the ties to allow the wood to swell and wherever stronger 

 growths come into contact with the angle-iron or any 

 metal which the frames of the trellis may be made of, 

 see that either a piece of wood or disused hosepipe is 

 put between the metal and the tree to act as a non- 

 conductor of the heat. In the summer time these frames 

 get very hot and fairly eat their way into the branches 

 that come into contact with them. All raffia used should 

 be at full strength and twisted to make it look neater, 

 which also increases the strength. Cut the strings close 

 up to the knot ; there is no need of leaving over an inch 

 on both sides. Aim to keep all wood straight, never for- 

 getting how the trees get their name — Fan Trained. 

 Planting Trees and Vines 

 The whole of our subjects can be dealt with under 

 this head as the same method is applicable to all. After 

 the preparatory work of making the borders the plant- 

 ing occupies little time, yet it is a very essential point 

 to ultimate success. Peach trees that have been grown 

 and trained in the open will have no ball to them and 

 the roots will all have been cut with the spade or shovel 

 as they were got up. These should all be gone over 

 and the broken or jagged ends cut off clean, which will 

 make them heal quicker and break better. Any roots 

 having a desire to be always "going down" can be re- 

 moved. Trees being transferred from pots should have 

 the soil washed out of the roots ; this is a more practical 

 way than shaking them out. Done with care the roots are 

 less liable to get broken and there is no damage to be 

 feared from dryness. Wlien planting always have the 

 holes made plenty wide enough so that all the roots can 

 be spread out to their full length evenly. Surface roots 

 are to be encouraged as the tree commences to fruit so 

 do not plant deep now ; the roots should only be nicely 

 covered. Some gardeners like to prune the top growth 

 hard back soon after planting ; "to make a foundation to 



the tree," is their theory. With our sun we get suf- 

 ficiently heavy wood without cutting back the trees. 



Vines grown in pots for planting out should also be 

 washed out, and the long roots disentangled so that they 

 can be spread out also. Give them all the space they 

 require at a depth of two inches. All other trees can 

 be similarly dealt with. Soon after planting a watering 

 will settle the soil around the roots. 



Tomatoes 



A sowing of tomatoes made now will furnish fruit 

 until the first crop outside is ripe. Sow seeds in a well- 

 drained pot or pan, using some fine light soil. Level 

 it off and water it before putting the seeds on. This will 

 hold it moist for a considerable time. Spread the seeds 

 evenly over the surface and cover them with fine soil 

 about the same thickness as a seed. Keep a piece of 

 glass over the pot to retain the moisture and keep out 

 vermin. As the seedlings appear gradually remove the 

 glass and prick them off into small pots as soon as they 

 are large enough to handle. Keep them going in a night 

 temperature of 58 F. to 60 F., advancing by day. Move 

 on into 4s when ready and from these transfer to the 

 benches. Lister's Prolific, Sunrise, and Best of All are 

 good reliable varieties. 



Seat ale 



Seakale forces easily and makes a very good winter 

 vegetable. Like rhubarb it is not at all particular 

 where it grows, so long as it has warmth and moisture. 

 The only difference is that seakale insists on a dark 

 chamber to do it right. To force it extensively it will 

 pay to give it bottom heat. Wliere only a small quan- 

 tity is grown, however, large pots can be used and placed 

 underneath a bench in a house having a temperature of 

 55 to 60. From the time of planting until cutting keep 

 the plants regularly syringed and watered. Avoid any 

 sodden state of the soil if grown underneath the benches. 



Veronica longifolia subsessilis 



