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HORTICULTUEE 



April 26, 1913 



OUTDOOR VEGETABLES AND FRUIT 



CONDUCTED BY 



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Questions by our renders in line with any of the topics presented on this page will be cordially received and promptly answered 

 by Mr. Jenkins. Such communications should Inrarlahly be addressed to the oflJce of HORTICULTURE. 



Making an Asparagus Bed 



As asparagus is usually left in the same ground for 

 years it is well to bear this in mind when preparing the 

 beds and not stint in preparation. Planting in rows is 

 at once the most convenient method for cultivation and 

 every other purpose, so we shall consider no other. As 

 we believe the nest year's crop is dependent upon the 

 proper growth and development of the foliage and as 

 this cannot take place without sufficient room for free 

 circulation of air and sunlight the importance of laying 

 out the rows a sufficient distance apart will at once be 

 apparent. Four feet is the minimum distance between 

 the rows for the best results, as good strong plants will 

 root out two feet on either side. We are proposing to 

 fill all the bed with roots therefore every bit of the soil 

 should be enriched and improved. While believing in 

 deep cultivation generally, still the asparagus is a com- 

 paratively shallow rooting plant and if the soil is thor- 

 oughly broken to a depth of eighteen inches and liberal 

 amounts of barnyard manure, decaying leaves or any 

 other decayed vegetable matter be added good results 

 may be assured. 



One-year-old seedlings raised in our own garden are 

 the kind of stock we prefer to plant, and in planting the 

 greatest care should be taken to keep the roots from 

 any lengthy exposure to sun or wind, as they are ex- 

 tremely sensitive. Unfortunately men are apt to think 

 that because there is no foliage to wilt or wither that 

 no harm is likely to follow drying. This is a great mis- 

 take as the subsequent growth is weaker and the initial 

 vigor of the plant is sapped away. It is analogous to 

 starving or checking the growth of a young animal and 

 all stockmen know that to do so is to throw away all 

 chances of the animal's reaching its fullest development. 

 It is because of these possibilities of check that we advo- 

 cate the growing of seedlings for planting, but if time be 

 precious and it is necessary to have material for cutting 

 in the least possible time, then a portion of the bed may 

 be planted from purchased two-year-old roots exercising 

 all possible care to prevent drying and ensure a good 

 start. These rows may be subsequently dug up for 

 forcing and their place gradually taken by home-grown 

 stock. As asparagus can be forced nearly any time and 

 very easily it is well to have this in view and plant out 

 a larger area than would be necessary for the ordinary 



outdoor cutting, and for this reason we advise the sow- 

 ing of some seed annually to be growing on to take the 

 place of that dug, for forcing. 



. For some reason there is an idea abroad that aspara- 

 gus should be planted deep. Our own experience has 

 been that if the crowns are covered by about three inches 

 of soil it is better than more. As soon as the beds are 

 planted apply a mulch of stable litter and leaves mixed 

 about a foot on each side of the rows and keep the rest 

 of the land cultivated and free from weeds. Should 

 the grower have a chance to choose between different 

 soils a sandy loam will be the most suitable as the wild 

 asparagus is a native of the sandy seashore and hence its 

 love of an occasional dressing of salt. 



Parsnips for Exhibition 



The parsnip is a plant requiring a long season of 

 growth and while for ordinary table use there is yet 

 plenty of time for sowing, those intended for exhibition 

 at the fall shows should be sown as soon as possible. 

 While a good deep friable loam will answer all require- 

 ments for ordinary crop, those intended for the exhibi- 

 tion table will call for something more. Our own 

 method is to make holes about a foot apart in the rows 

 and two feet between the rows. These holes are made 

 with a crow bar or other suitable tool to a depth of four 

 feet or more. They are then filled with a fine soil 

 passed through a half-inch sieve, this soil being com- 

 posed of a bushel of loam, half a bushel of leaf soil, a 

 sprinkling of lime and a three-inch pot-full of fine bone 

 meal. This mixture is carefully tamped into the holes 

 till full and a few seed are sown on the top. As soon 

 as they have germinated all but the strongest plant are 

 removed and this plant on each hole is encouraged by 

 watering and occasional feeding to do its very best. 



Succession Crops 



Sow lettuce, radish, cauliflower, spinach, cabbage, 

 beets and carrots for succession. Small quantities sown 

 frequently will give better results in young, tender, 

 juicy product than large sowings made less frequently. 



Our usual chapters on Fruit and Vegetables Under 

 Glass are missing this week owing to the illness of Mr. 

 Penson. We hope he will be able to resume his valuable 

 notes next week. 



Order Your Decoration Day Flowers and Supplies Early. 



Get Your Young Stock for Growing on For Next Season. 

 Get J These and Your Choice Seeds and Roots From the 



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