March 8, 1913 



HORTICULTURE 



325 



ROSE GROWING UNDER GLASS 



. CONDUCTED BY 



Questions by our readers in line with any of the topics presented on this page will be cordially received and promptly answered 

 by Mr. Ruzicka. SUL-h communications should Invariably be addressed to the office of UOUTICULTURE. 



Setting Re-potted Plants on the Benches 



Now that a large number of the plants are being re- 

 potted, remember our advice last year as to setting them. 

 Keep all the taller plants to one side of the bench, giving 

 preference to the north side, if the houses run east and 

 west, so that the smaller plants are always to the front 

 nearest the glass, where they have a better chance to get 

 more light and dry out more than they would if set any- 

 where else. Should all the plants be set on the bench 

 regardless of their size, low plants mixed in among the 

 taller ones, then the smaller plants will be crowded by 

 the taller and will have but little chance to develop into 

 strong healthy stock, so necessary for planting later on. 

 By setting all these small plants to the front of the 

 bench, giving them the most light and air, they will dry 

 out about as fast as their taller neighbors, which take 

 more water because of their larger growth and more 

 abundant foliage. 



Pinching Buds on Young Beauty Stock 



Beauties have a great habit of forming buds as soon 

 as they start to grow" after their first potting. These 

 buds should never be allowed to become of any size, but 

 should be pinched out as soon as they are large enough 

 to be noticeable; this should be done when the little 

 rascals are about the size of a grain of wheat. If removed 

 at this time the plants will hardly feel the loss, and will 

 continue to grow right on. Should these buds be al- 

 lowed to develop to any size they will greatly prey on 

 the vitality of the plants. Go over your plants every 

 other day, and do all the disbudding. This can also be 

 done when looking over the plants to see to the watering. 

 On plants of larger size in larger pots, these buds should 

 be taken out with one leaf. This will encourage stronger 

 growth, and the plant will likely grow quite a little 

 before another bud appears. 



Scraping and Cleaning 



At times even in spite of the fact that nice clean pots 

 were used, a green scum forms over the top of the soil of 

 the potted plants. This should be removed as soon as 

 it forms. The best way of doing so is to have little 

 iron scrapers that just fit the different size pots. When 

 scraping pull out all the weeds that may have appeared 

 and then remove the scum with a least bit of soil from 

 the top. Then after dumping out the loose soil and 

 scum, run the iron scraper around the pot so as to loosen 

 a little of the soil, and leave the surface a little rough. 

 This will help to keep the soil from getting green again 

 for a much longer time than if the soil is left perfectly 

 smooth. 



Soil for the Final Potting 



Eight now is the time to think of the soil for the final 

 potting unless it has been prepared last fall. We like to 

 have plenty of well-decayed cow manure in this soil, 

 which like all soil for potting should be screened very 

 fine. A little bone meal and a little soot can be added, 

 and this mixture makes ideal soil for the last potting. 

 If you have any reason to think that the soil is inclined 

 to be the least bit sour, then secure some blue litmus 

 paper from the druggist and test it. Then if you find it 

 necessary, add a little lime to the soil, which will sweeten 

 it sufficiently. Do not, however, add the lime when you 

 mix in the bone and soot. The lime should be added 

 some time prior to using the soil for potting so that it 

 has a chance to act before the bonemeal and soot are 

 added. Should the lime be added at the same time as 

 the soot and bone, the chemical action of the lime will 

 free a large amount of the ammonia that the bone and 

 soot contain; this is none too good for the plants and at 

 times the roots are liable to be burned off, thus destroy- 

 ing the plants. 



Greenfly 



This pest, with us, is so scarce that we almost forget 

 that there is such a pest as greenfly. However, we are 

 always on the lookout for it, and never give it a chance 

 to appear in anything like a large number. If one is 

 found on a bud while cutting, or anywhere else around 

 the plants a fumigation of gas or some of the various 

 tobacco papers is given at the very earliest possible 

 moment. 



Liquid Manure 



Now that the spring is almost here and the days are 

 much longer, the plants will naturally begin to grow 

 more freely than they have during the winter months. 

 Also it stands to reason that the soil does not contain 

 the nourishment that it did last fall and that the plants 

 require to produce the new growth. It is well, therefore, 

 to help the plants along as much as possible by applying 

 a good dose of liquid manure every now and then ; twice 

 a week is none too often, if the plants are healthy and 

 growing along nicely. Before applying, however, make 

 sure that the plants are not too dry at the roots. This 

 would do considerable damage to the roots if not to the 

 plants themselves. The explanation for this is that the 

 roots take up the feed too quickly, absorbing large quan- 

 tities of the liquid, which burns the tender tissues of the 

 roots. Water with clear water first, as we have advised 

 again and again through these columns. We have al- 

 ways advised using good cow manure, for making the 

 liquid, and we still stick to this. As far as we know 

 there is no real good substitute for this manure. 



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