June 14, 1913 



HORTICULTUEE 



885 



NOTES ON CULTURE OF FLORISTS^ STOCK 



CONDVCTED BY 



^*Ay>,%p1 . Po/IaO/ 



Questions by our readers in line with any of the topics presented on this page will be cordially received and promptly answered 

 hv Mr Pnrroii Such Communications should Invariably be addressed to the office of HORTICULTURE. 



by Mr. Farrell 



Cosmos 



The growing of cosmos in our northerly sections is a 

 very uncertain crop as they are cut down by a slight 

 frost. AVliere one has plenty of house room in the fall 

 it would be advisable to grow a batch in pots to flower 

 inside. Young plants can be potted now into 3-inch 

 jiots in a rich compost of fibrous loam three parts, well- 

 rotted cow manure one part and a sprinkling of bone 

 meal. These pots can be plunged in a cold frame as 

 they may need it up to 7, 8 or 9-inch pots. They should 

 be pinched two or three times during the summer 

 months. These plants can be kept outdoors until frost 

 tlireatens when they can be placed in a cool house. You 

 will find these indoor grown blooms superior in size and 

 (|uality to outdoor ones. 



Cypripediums 

 During spells of wet and damp weather cypripediums 

 will require to be ventilated freely, regardless of other 

 conditions, otherwise the fleshy leaves are liable to rot. 

 They, however, like a good moist atmosphere to grow in 

 ."^o damp down enough to keep the air from Ijecoming too 

 dry. While they like enough of shade to keep the foli- 

 age from scorching it should never be made too dense. 

 Ap])ly water at the roots whenever the compost shows a 

 sign of dryness and on all bright days do not forget to 

 give them a good syringing both under and over the foli- 

 age. Weak manure water once a week will materially 

 help them along. 



Ficus elastica 



The propagation of rubber plants on any extensive 

 scale is carried on during a time when hard firing fur- 

 nishes the needed even and continuous supply of heat. 

 For the small grower, however, there is no better season 

 for, the increase of stock than the present and no better 

 course of procedure than mossing. By following this 

 method, wliii-h is nothing but a form of layering, full- 

 fledged plants are obtained right at the start. Crippled 

 and lanky plants, the branches of old unsalable speci- 

 men's anything unsightly in the rubber line is operated 

 upon, the calling forth of roots at the joints and below 

 the leafy tops being the object. The place to be mossed 

 for the formation of roots first undergoes some sort of 

 mutilation, with a sharp knife, as cutting the wood al- 

 most through on one side and inserting a bit of wood or 

 gravel to keep the cut ojjcn, washing away the gum after 

 the bleeding has stopped and then tying sphagnum moss 

 ill a good thick layer firmly around this part of the 

 wood. Of course it is understood that frequent syring- 

 ing or pouring water on from time to time will soon 

 •cause them to form roots. 



Hydrangeas 



The old, unsold plants of hydrangeas, and the young 

 stock propagated last winter should now all be out in 

 the field and will there make a rapid growth at this sea- 

 son. By a Judicious cutting back of fast growing 

 branches, and nipping the less vigorous growth, we en- 

 deavor to work up a compactly formed and shapely 

 specimen. After the first week in July all pruning or 

 stopping on stock thus planted out should be discon- 

 tinued for the season, since if allowed up any later it 

 would mean a sacrifice of bloom. Strong, sturdy shoots, 

 now starting as an undergrowth from the main stems, 

 should not be removed, for these will develop into the 

 finest flowering branches a year hence. All weak and 

 straggling growth, however, must be cleanly cut away, 

 and the plants kept free of these at all times. By now 

 topping the plants for the last time we obtain fine ma- 

 terial for propagation. These top ends thus cut off and 

 properly trimmed, will in a cold frame root in a few 

 weeks. A good distance between the cuttings will after 

 they are rooted make an immediate potting up unneces- 

 sary. 



Mignonette 



Seeds for the principal crops of winter-flowering mig- 

 nonette are sown in July and on some jdaces as late as 

 the last week in August. Successive sowings from now 

 until then will result in a supply of flowering plants in 

 pots from early in the fall until the beginning of the 

 new 3'ear. They do not like to be disturbed by shifting 

 so sow a pinch of seeds at once in the pots in which the 

 plants are to be flowered and sold, which can be 5 or 6 

 inch pots, filling them but three-fourths up with soil 

 and adding the remainder after the seedlings are some- 

 what strong and have been thinned down to one or more 

 of the sturdiest. One-half manure, if it is old enough to 

 be handled, added to the soil, to which a fair proportion 

 of sand is added, is what we use in the gi-owing of pot 

 mig-nonette. Press it down firmly and let it become 

 rather dry at every watering. Place the seeds under 

 glass, but never shut out the air, nor the light or 

 sunshine after the plants have begun to make headway. 

 When mignonette shows bloom buds too soon for your 

 trade, pinch back and it will flower later. Keep in as 

 cool a house as you may have and attend to watering, 

 staking and syringing. 



Lemon Verbenas 



Young plants of lemon verbena should be planted 

 out in a rich piece of ground. Lemon verbenas are fast- 

 selling florists' stock and their culture is not at all bur- 

 densome or diflicult. Good cultivation and attention 

 will make them produce plenty of material to cut from, 

 so give them a cultivation every week, keeping the 

 ground clear of weeds and open. 



Mr, FarreU'f 



next notes will be on the following: Care of Cyclamen; Chrysanthemums: Poinsettias ; Palms; Solanums; Clean- 

 ing, Painting and Repairing. 



