286 



HORTICULTURE 



March 1, 1913 



FRUIT AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CONDUCTED BY 



J^tTVv., 



Questions by our readers in line with any of the topics presented on this page will be cordially received and promt..4y answered 

 by Mr. Penson. Such communications should Invariably be addressed to the office of HORTICDLTDKE. 



Propagation of the Fig 



Through an oversight the propagation of the fig has 

 been omitted. The space originally intended to be 

 devoted to it was used for another topic and so we find 

 it occurring after a few remarks on starting a house. 

 The method adopted for propagating the better known 

 varieties is by offsets, which, if not done previously, can 

 be taken off with a little root and put in suitable sized 

 pots at once. Scions for grafting will have been laid 

 by at pruning time. Other recognized methods are from 

 seeds, layers, cuttings and budding. Seeds have been 

 the source of origin of new and improved varieties, many 

 of which have been raised under glass. Brown Turkey 

 seems to date back further than any other variety, but 

 just whether it is the same one mentioned in biblical 

 days is very doubtful, although ever since then the fig 

 must have been in existence and that was long before 

 greenhouses were thought of in America or Europe. 

 Layers and cuttings are made similarly to the vine but 

 the cut should be near a joint. Budding is not practiced 

 to any great extent but is a possible method. Seedlings 

 are often long in showing their true characteristics; 

 grafting on a good stock will shorten this considerably. 



Some Pests and Diseases of Melons 



After finishing a crop a melon plant can be discarded 

 in perfect health. Some will show signs of wearing out 

 but there are instances where the presence of pests or 

 diseases are very visible. Neglect is often the cause of 

 this, especially if "live stock" is the trouble. One of 

 the worst enemies of a melon is red spider. I wrote on 

 Jan. 6th, 1913, "An excessively dry atmosphere with 

 insufficient syringing can usually account for this" which 

 after all that has been written recently, I still abide by. 

 Wlien the plants are still in the seed pots moisture and 

 the syringe must be kept in close attendance and con- 

 tinued right up to the time of ripening, with the ex- 

 ception of the time the plants are in flower. Green fly 

 is constantly appearing, especially through the spring 

 months. Fumigate on its initial appearance, otherwise 

 all young growths and flowers will be crippled. Thrips 

 is somewhat similar to red spider and often takes more 

 to eradicate. A solution of paris green and sugar can 

 be applied if pressure fails to dislodge them. Mealy 

 bug is the outcome of dirty houses. It is iiseless to 

 syringe these off expecting them to stay off; a sufficient 

 number are either left or find their way back again to 

 establish another colony. After cleaning walls, benches, 

 etc., dress the floor and underneath the heating pipes 

 with boiling water or insecticide sufficiently strong 

 enough to kill them. Mildew is caused through bad 

 ventilating. Sulphur made into a paste and put on the 

 heating pipes when hot, or blown onto the affected parts 

 in a dry state will kill it. Be cautious when using it on 

 the pipes as only an application of a few feet is required 

 on the hottest pipe. Canker is more prevalent in some 

 places than others. This is the reason for planting on 

 the small mounds; it keeps the stems dry and they are 

 less liable to contract the disease. There is no benefit 

 to be derived from planting them on the mound. It is 

 more liable to be a detriment, as it takes time and 



patience to water them through. If at any time these 

 lower roots should suffer from dryness the plant will 

 lose in consequence. The finest thing we have found 

 as a preventive is to remove the two lower whorls of 

 leaves, exposing the stem to sun and air which will keep 

 it hard and free from disease. On the first signs of a 

 stem going wrong expose it to all the sunlight possible, 

 and if this does not dry it up rub in newly slacked lime 

 until it is dry. Stem-rot is similar to canker but may 

 be found half way up the plant. Treat this in the same 

 way, tying the foliage back instead of cutting it away. 

 Other remedies have been exploited for canker and stem 

 rot, but to us there are only two — the sun first, and fresh 

 slacked lime as a last resort. 



Disbudding Trellis Trees 



Soon after the fruit is set on peach and nectarine 

 trees growing on the trellis the growths will be pushing 

 out. These must be reduced considerably and the right 

 ones retained. It will be advisable to go over them 

 three times before completion; at the same time the 

 final reduction is made a few of the fruits can also be 

 discarded. By leaving the growths on the top side of 

 the wood pruning is simplified and no gaps should be 

 made when taking a piece out of any size. The latter 

 would be V-shaped if growths are left on both sides and 

 be much harder to fill in. This is intended to apply 

 as a general rule; occasionally a growth on the 

 under side if necessary. First remove the "breast- 

 wood" growths, i. e., those on the face of the wood which 

 cannot be trained either way to look good, afterwards 

 the underneath growths and the excessive ones on the 

 top. This is when the shape of the tree is made and 

 also next year's fruiting wood prepared. 



The Tapping Stick 



Here is where I lay myself open to be pounced upon 

 as an advocate of old-fashioned ideas, — back numbers 

 and so forth. Well go ahead. At the time I agreed 

 to write to Horticulture it was understood only that 

 which is backed up with practical experience should be 

 included, which has always been adhered to, and this is 

 no exception. For potted fruit trees the tapping stick 

 is invaluable through the winter and spring months. 

 Trees require watering with care ; extremes either way 

 are not tolerated and it is impossible to always form a 

 correct opinion of the condition of the roots at a glance. 

 Quite often one errs on the wet side. The little extra 

 time used is more than compensated for by the results 

 obtained. Later on they may be done without if no top- 

 dressing of manure is used. Where this method is prac- 

 tised the condition of the soil underneath can only be 

 gauged by the sound of the pot. 



Vegetables 



Vegetable seeds being sown under glass from now on 

 will consist chiefly of stuff being prepared for early 

 planting in the garden or frames. Locality will deter- 

 mine if it is necessary to put in more to mature under 

 glass. Do not be in too much haste with plants for 

 outside or they will be starved in the pots before the 

 weather is suitable for them to receive their transfer. 



