854 



HOETICULTUEE 



June 7, 1913 



FRUIT AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CONDUCTED BY 



i>thrs^. 



Questions by our readers In line with any of the topics presented on this page will be cordially received and promptly answered 

 by Mr. Penson. Such communications should Invariahly be addressed to the office of HORTICULTURE. 



Watering; Melon Beds 



The varying constitutions of the soils used in making 

 up melon beds makes it difficult to bring them all under 

 one head when referring to the watering. In the first 

 instance we will consider only those beds made upon 

 raised benches with perforated plates for the bottom, 

 affording, as they do, ample drainage. I might say these 

 are in use here and give entire satisfaction. A melon 

 is a plant that enjoys an ample supply of water through 

 all its growing stages up to the ripening period. To try 

 to grow them in anything hut a well-drained bench is a 

 follv, as the soil would soon go sour, a condition resented 

 by all plants. One very peculiar characteristic about 

 the roots of a melon is their great liking for firm soil. 

 The firmest parts of the bed are often the most thickly 

 netted with roots. In addition to this, after quite a 

 number of trials, we find the firmer made beds produce 

 the larger number of fruits, usually of medium size and 

 well-finished. 



Now the question has arisen why make the beds so 

 firm when the water has so much trouble ta pass through 

 them and it is absolutely necessary that it should pass 

 through, or the greater "part of it at least? It is an- 

 swered in the foregoing, or in a sentence "to produce 

 quantity."' 



Another point I have heard discussed is — which of 

 two benches would remain wet the longer, one put in 

 loose or the other which is made firm? I contend the 

 former would. A melon, we know, requires lots of water 

 and a firm soil, which shows the necessity of watering 

 often and thorouglily. The raised bench gives itself 

 admirably to these conditions for it is easy to look where 

 the water is draining and thus water on until all is 

 soaked — no little job if the bed has dried right out. 

 Water will often stand on the surface of a pot, bed or 

 border for some time if the said soil is thoroughly dried 

 out and will give one the idea that the soil is wet 

 enough ; not so, it is the top soil absorbing the moisture. 

 A semi-wet soil will pass water through it quicker than 

 one that is real dry providing both were made equally 

 firm at the time they were made up. This is more 

 noticeable in sandy soil than it is in those of a heavy 

 nature, bearing out the theory that a dry bed is difficult 

 to soak. The clayey soil would retain more moisture 

 than the sandy would. After studying the soils there is 

 no excuse for only half watering a melon bed. Xever 

 mind if a little stays on the top for a few seconds : after 

 that has gone down, give it more until the drip is even 

 from all parts. Wlien growing the plants on into six- 

 inch pots before planting them in the bed, a mound of 



considerable size has to be made to cover the roots, which 

 is often difficult to water. An inch or more can be taken 

 oft' this by sinking the ball into the bed. It does not 

 make any difference to the crop by potting them on. 

 They may be a week or so earlier — no more, as the trans- 

 fer from "pot to bench takes a little time to be forgotten. 

 By planting from threes a much smaller mound is re- 

 quired ; in fact if the base of the plant is an inch and a 

 half above the level of the bed that will be sufficient. 

 Xo trouble with canker or stem rot should be experi- 

 enced if the method advocated in these columns as a 

 preventive is used. 



It is impossible to make the solid bed with a hot 

 bed underneath so hard as you can one in a bench 

 and with the greater rooting space for the plants to roam 

 in these beds will not dry out so quickly. This brings 

 us to the point of large or small beds for melon growing. 

 There is little to be gained and a risk of losing much 

 with large beds. Growth will be ranker, causing trouble, 

 which nobody wants. The fruits may be a little larger, 

 taking longer to develop. A melon bed fifteen inches 

 wide and four deep is sufficient and will grow first-class 

 fruit. Give them a light top dressing soon after the 

 fruit is set and feed well while they are swelling. Ad- 

 ditions on the front similar to the way a vine border is 

 made does not repay for the extra work entailed. 



Mulching 



With the hot weather now close at hand the question 

 of keeping suificient moisture in peach houses and vine- 

 ries stands out more prominently than hitherto. Young 

 vineries will be benefited by a mulching of spent 

 mushroom manure, put on about two inches thick. , This 

 can be damped down twice daily without any injury to 

 the roots and thus a greater amount of moisture is ac- 

 cumulated. It will also help draw the roots up near the 

 surface. Some growers I know do not agree with mulch- 

 ing young vines in this way, yet I have never found any 

 hann from it. Half decayed leaf-soil has been used for 

 the same purpose. It is not to be recommended, as there 

 is a danger of fungus going througli the border. Where 

 ripe grapes are lianging, if no top dressing was used 

 previouslv. mushroom manure can be used now or wait 

 a while until the crop is off and then use half decayed 

 cow manure, which will give them a slight stimulant. 

 Swelling grapes sliould have some good cow manure, but 

 take care to water it in and leave plenty of air on the 

 house during the first night or the foliage will burn. 



Young peach trees are best without any kind of mulch, 

 as they make rank enough wood the first year. Older 

 trees can be served similar to the vines. 



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